UKC

Restricted Access

Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence. 

Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The long shallow groove is a fine route. Climb it to the block overhang and exit leftwards under this. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Cheshire/Merseyside *** routes , McCoys Homestyle trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Hyslop 28 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Approach the crux bulge from the left. 2 x 0 cams go in well to protect.
Show beta
βeta: Approach the crux bulge from the left. 2 x 0 cams go in well to protect.
MeMeMe 31 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did I do the same climb as you guys? Wander up bit at bottom, put some gear in, do the 5a move to get established in the groove then up lovely groove to top. Gear seemed fine, not a hard climb for HVS.
Show beta
βeta: Did I do the same climb as you guys? Wander up bit at bottom, put some gear in, do the 5a move to get established in the groove then up lovely groove to top. Gear seemed fine, not a hard climb for HVS.
Carl Smethurst 30 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Can't really comment on the grade, as my climbing partner had to back off it after finding no gear. Given the apparent lack of protection for 20 ft it looks very committing. Bit of a sandbag?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can't really comment on the grade, as my climbing partner had to back off it after finding no gear. Given the apparent lack of protection for 20 ft it looks very committing. Bit of a sandbag?
r0b 19 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A quality line. Tricky rock onto the slab then bold to the first gear. Easier to the top from here but interesting all the way.
Show beta
βeta: A quality line. Tricky rock onto the slab then bold to the first gear. Easier to the top from here but interesting all the way.

Logged Ascents

276 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Helsby

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Marshall's Climb

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Helsby)

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