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24m.

Rockfax Description
24m. A major classic up the tallest buttress here and one of the very best routes on Western Grit. Climb a tricky crack, a bulge then steeper cracks to a long move on a pocket to reach a huge flake (long tape runner). Reach the slab and ledges then step left and finish up the fine jamming crack to an awkward bulging exit. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans late 1950s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Hen Cloud, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
yarpen zigrin 6 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Solid 3 stars :D Almost as good as the Sloth at the Roaches.
βeta?
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βeta: Solid 3 stars :D Almost as good as the Sloth at the Roaches.
Si dH 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I only seconded it but wish I'd led it. Nails for the grade, brilliant at the grade. I agree, better than anything Ive done at Stanage inc RUnconq, Queersville, all the 3* routes etc etc
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I only seconded it but wish I'd led it. Nails for the grade, brilliant at the grade. I agree, better than anything Ive done at Stanage inc RUnconq, Queersville, all the 3* routes etc etc
GrahamD 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant.
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Quite simply the best HVS route I've ever climbed - as good as any 3-star HVS at the Roaches or Stanage! Sustained interest throughout.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite simply the best HVS route I've ever climbed - as good as any 3-star HVS at the Roaches or Stanage! Sustained interest throughout.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 127
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Sloth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)