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10m.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the Peak's pre-eminent jamming crack. A compelling crack in the south-facing wall gobbles cams and arguments about the grade continue. The initial roof is the crux, but interest is maintained to a superb, juggy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1956.

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Eastern Grit Jamming, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Work Hard, Play Hard, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Do you climb Very Severe?, 50 of the Best, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Michelle's crack ticklist, On Peak Rock, Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Proper Cracks UK, Memorable Climbs, Big Boy Pants, 2020 Trips, Jem's Time in the Peaks

Feedback

User Date Notes
truckmonkey 23 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: could do with being ten times longer. nuff said
βeta?
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βeta: could do with being ten times longer. nuff said
Jon Stewart 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: to a real good jammer it feels like hs 4b, but to anyone who's merely OK at jamming, it'll feel as hard as most e1s, and to anyone who's truly rubbish at jamming they'll fall off and leave their skin behind (well, the skin on the back of their hands anyway). so how hard is it? vs 4c of course, you can tell that much just by looking at it.
βeta?
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βeta: to a real good jammer it feels like hs 4b, but to anyone who's merely OK at jamming, it'll feel as hard as most e1s, and to anyone who's truly rubbish at jamming they'll fall off and leave their skin behind (well, the skin on the back of their hands anyway). so how hard is it? vs 4c of course, you can tell that much just by looking at it.
Fiend 31 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Surely HS 4b for anyone with normal hands - every move is a rest! Truly an excellent route though.
βeta?
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βeta: Surely HS 4b for anyone with normal hands - every move is a rest! Truly an excellent route though.
Fidget 8 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed this loads! Will be back again to improve my style of assent (ahem, clean it up)
βeta?
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βeta: Enjoyed this loads! Will be back again to improve my style of assent (ahem, clean it up)
Jon Greengrass 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: like all 3 star cracks it all feels over too soon, perfect jams throughout I imagine it will spit you out if you're incompetent.
βeta?
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βeta: like all 3 star cracks it all feels over too soon, perfect jams throughout I imagine it will spit you out if you're incompetent.
Ropeboy 11 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: pattern/sequence?! It's an easy and standard jamming crack. The trick is to jam your feet as well as your hands. Very delightfull!
βeta?
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βeta: pattern/sequence?! It's an easy and standard jamming crack. The trick is to jam your feet as well as your hands. Very delightfull!
mat_galvin 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of flying time. Once you've sorted the sequence it looks do-able. Up4it attitude required and lots of cams! Defo on the hard side of VS 4c!
βeta?
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βeta: Lots of flying time. Once you've sorted the sequence it looks do-able. Up4it attitude required and lots of cams! Defo on the hard side of VS 4c!
The old James turnbull 14 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: still got the cuts a week later,shouldnt be too hard when the pattern is sorted and your not already pumped.failed in both areas.still love it
βeta?
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βeta: still got the cuts a week later,shouldnt be too hard when the pattern is sorted and your not already pumped.failed in both areas.still love it
Mark Davies PK 3 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This is tough even if you can jam. worth giving a go as the gears good and it sure is classic!
βeta?
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βeta: This is tough even if you can jam. worth giving a go as the gears good and it sure is classic!

Logged Ascents

1408 users have logged this
466 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 218
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 211
Votes cast 183
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Mall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Millstone Edge)