High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
The fifth E4 is the best with magnificent moves and few rests. From the right-hand end of the ledge, move up rightwards to a big flake (as for Yellow BR). Climb the right-hand side of the flake (peg) using a thin crack to gain a hole in the break. Climb up and right from the hole and follow a line leftwards past a flake to finish slightly more easily, reaching grassy ground. © Rockfax
FA. (A6) Phil Burke 1979. Freed the upper section of the aid route Extender. (Amber Gambler & Beep) John Codling, Steve Allen, Nigel Riddington 1982.
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Graham Hoey | 29 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Maillon removed. Finish of Ambler Gambler and A6 now climable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maillon removed. Finish of Ambler Gambler and A6 now climable. |
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Graham Hoey | 13 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: A6 now cleaned, maillon to be removed as well. Lowering off here misses out some good climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A6 now cleaned, maillon to be removed as well. Lowering off here misses out some good climbing. |
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Graham Hoey | 3 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: The A6 finishing section above the break is now grassed over up to a pointless bolt lower-off. As regards Ambler Gambler, the last section of this is also very grassy. It appears that people now move right from the top thread of Ambler Gambler to join the single bolt lower-off which has two mailons on it. It is possible, and still good climbing, to finish above this bolt, a good move (6a) and steady (not loose) climbing to the top. Belay using tree on right and an obvious one to the left! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The A6 finishing section above the break is now grassed over up to a pointless bolt lower-off. As regards Ambler Gambler, the last section of this is also very grassy. It appears that people now move right from the top thread of Ambler Gambler to join the single bolt lower-off which has two mailons on it. It is possible, and still good climbing, to finish above this bolt, a good move (6a) and steady (not loose) climbing to the top. Belay using tree on right and an obvious one to the left! |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Curbar Edge)