UKC

Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
  • Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A fine route up the long flake/corner towards the right-hand side of the wall. Big cams help along the way or just attack the bold layback with gusto. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Smith, Hugh Banner 1961. Climbed free at a time when most were still using aid points on limestone..

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life

Feedback

User Date Notes
Malc Dugdale 27 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: a lot of soil and vegetation at the start, but an enjoyable route after that!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a lot of soil and vegetation at the start, but an enjoyable route after that!
migs493 26 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lower part of the route is filthy with lots of soil on the holds. Needs a good brush!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower part of the route is filthy with lots of soil on the holds. Needs a good brush!!
Tom265 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a fixed rope a little further left to help get up to the start. Still have to inch along the edge, but better than the loose and muddy direct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a fixed rope a little further left to help get up to the start. Still have to inch along the edge, but better than the loose and muddy direct.
oliferney 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware the approach / scramble up to first belay ledge is a little tricky
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be aware the approach / scramble up to first belay ledge is a little tricky
oliferney 28 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Be aware the approach / scramble up to first belay ledge is a little tricky
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be aware the approach / scramble up to first belay ledge is a little tricky
Tony Holdsworth 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: take gardening equipment
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: take gardening equipment
Dave Mason 13 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A good fun route. One of the easiest ways to get to the top of the tor. I found birds nesting at about 20m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good fun route. One of the easiest ways to get to the top of the tor. I found birds nesting at about 20m.

Logged Ascents

118 users have logged this

Guidebooks for High Tor

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 26
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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