Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.


Rockfax Description
A superb route taking in the full height of the wall. The route is a sport climb equipped so as not to interfere with the existing routes. There is an easy run out where the route crosses Roadrunner. Climb up to the bulge right of High Torquing. Make powerful moves to gain a large flake. Pull up to a rest then climb up and right, crossing Roadrunner, to gain a large undercut flake. Hard moves up and left gain the girdle line. Tackle the blank wall above moving up and slightly leftwards. Easier ground leads to a belay at the top of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb and hard new addition to the left wing taking in the full height of the wall, ensuring plenty of exposure throughout! The route is a full sport climb, however it is equipped as to not interfere with the existing trad lines. Hence there is an easy run out section where the route crosses Roadrunner.

Climb up to the massive bulge right of High Torquing, then make desperate powerful moves on small pockets to gain the obvious large flake. Pull up to a good rest then climb up and right crossing Roadrunner (run-out) to gain the large undercut flake. Move up and left from here via hard technical moves to gain the girdle traverse line and a rest. Tackle the superb blank looking wall above via hard technical moves up and slightly leftwards, then continue on up the final easier wall above to a belay at the top of the crag.

Jon Clark Oct/2016.


UK 8a and up


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High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Route of Interest
The Ogre

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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