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45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added spice.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner to a belay under the bulge.
2) 5a, 27m. Pull over the bulge then follow the corner to the roof. Traverse wildly left to gain the finishing corner. © Rockfax

FFA. Unknown. FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read 1965..

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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User Date Notes
smoreda 22 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good.
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βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good.
Crumpet 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing.
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βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing.
MNA123 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof!
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βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof!
cem 13 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a?
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βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a?
supersteve 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though.
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βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though.
PaulW 5 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear.
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βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear.
VisionSet 13 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I've put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn't disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow.
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βeta: I've put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn't disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 103
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Kelly's Overhang

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)