High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added spice.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner to a belay under the bulge.
2) 5a, 27m. Pull over the bulge then follow the corner to the roof. Traverse wildly left to gain the finishing corner. © Rockfax
FFA. Unknown. FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read 1965..
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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leagoetz | 11 May |
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βeta: Currently has a raven\'s nest (May 2024). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Currently has a raven's nest (May 2024). |
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jackmorford | 30 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Very loose triangular block just above the bulge, tempting for a right hand but do not pull on it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very loose triangular block just above the bulge, tempting for a right hand but do not pull on it! |
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smoreda | 22 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Three pegs protect the crux; first one is redundant as there is good natural pro, third one I can vouch is good. |
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Crumpet | 11 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Questionable tat on peg that could do with removing. |
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MNA123 | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof! |
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cem | 13 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Surely this no more than HVS 5a? |
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supersteve | 18 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though. |
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PaulW | 5 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear. |
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VisionSet | 13 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: I\'ve put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn\'t disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I've put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn't disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)