Loading Notifications...
35m.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route taking a strong line up the central grooves with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as described, in one pitch, but careful ropework is needed to avoid drag around the roof. Any fixed gear should not be trusted, but natural protection is plentiful. Climb the groove - strenuous, but with rests - taking care gaining the sloping ledge (possible belay). Move diagonally left to clear the roof and finish more easily up the groove, which is a bit loose. There is a park bench belay 15m back from the edge, but it is a stretch with 50m ropes. © Rockfax

FFA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Bruce Campbell-Kelly 1969. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Glenn Sutcliffe 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hardest E2 I’ve done for a while. Upper flake an harrowing experience, bit like the hanging gardens of Babylon, only slightly more vegetated
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hardest E2 I’ve done for a while. Upper flake an harrowing experience, bit like the hanging gardens of Babylon, only slightly more vegetated
Jonny2vests 13 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Intended to climb M1 today, I didnt read these comments, so this is my 'impartial view'. M1 is a deathtrap waiting to happen. I set off towards the initial bulge, which is a completely hanging block that should be levered off. The route requires you to pull through this - if it came off it would land on the belayer, giving us a repeat of what happened on Darius recently which is seemingly much more solid. Its obvious on inspection that bits of it are coming off all the time, but pretty soon I reckon about 2 tons will be off. The bolt protecting this move is among the worst I've ever seen. In fact the whole of the Left Wing appears to be seeing very little traffic with brambled paths and grass tugging scrambles. It needs in-situ gear replacing and some rock removing, then I might return one day. M1 - here be dragons.
 
Show beta
βeta: Intended to climb M1 today, I didnt read these comments, so this is my 'impartial view'. M1 is a deathtrap waiting to happen. I set off towards the initial bulge, which is a completely hanging block that should be levered off. The route requires you to pull through this - if it came off it would land on the belayer, giving us a repeat of what happened on Darius recently which is seemingly much more solid. Its obvious on inspection that bits of it are coming off all the time, but pretty soon I reckon about 2 tons will be off. The bolt protecting this move is among the worst I've ever seen. In fact the whole of the Left Wing appears to be seeing very little traffic with brambled paths and grass tugging scrambles. It needs in-situ gear replacing and some rock removing, then I might return one day. M1 - here be dragons.
teddy 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'll second these comments. Eminently protectable with a rack of wires and friends that can back up the admitedly old peg/ bolt where necessary. The perceived lack of popularity of peak limestone trad is nothing to do with insitu gear. Far wider forces are at work here eg. the bouldering resurgence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'll second these comments. Eminently protectable with a rack of wires and friends that can back up the admitedly old peg/ bolt where necessary. The perceived lack of popularity of peak limestone trad is nothing to do with insitu gear. Far wider forces are at work here eg. the bouldering resurgence.
Graham Hoey 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Don't understand the above comments. The route is very adequately protected by nuts and cams. The old bolt at the start is next to bomber nuts, the top peg is in reasonable nick and is close to good gear (July 2003).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't understand the above comments. The route is very adequately protected by nuts and cams. The old bolt at the start is next to bomber nuts, the top peg is in reasonable nick and is close to good gear (July 2003).
Katya 24 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Apologies if this is the wrong place for this..... I have not done the route, but the 'like for like' idea makes sense to me on crucial gear that makes a route the grade it is. Once popular routes are now falling into a state where no one wants to climb them because they are dirty, as well as being overly scary due to the poor state of much insitu gear in the Peak. I'm sure many of these routes would see more traffic, and thus be cleaner/better if the in situ gear was up to scratch on them - or this could just be the fact that few people want to climb peak limestone, Classic E1's, E2's and E3's I find are frequently dirty, with cobwebs and dirt in the gear slots.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apologies if this is the wrong place for this..... I have not done the route, but the 'like for like' idea makes sense to me on crucial gear that makes a route the grade it is. Once popular routes are now falling into a state where no one wants to climb them because they are dirty, as well as being overly scary due to the poor state of much insitu gear in the Peak. I'm sure many of these routes would see more traffic, and thus be cleaner/better if the in situ gear was up to scratch on them - or this could just be the fact that few people want to climb peak limestone, Classic E1's, E2's and E3's I find are frequently dirty, with cobwebs and dirt in the gear slots.

Logged Ascents

169 users have logged this
28 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Delicatessen

Grade: E2 5c ***
(High Tor)