A fantastic route taking a strong line up the central grooves with varied climbing in a superb position. Best done as described, in one pitch, but careful ropework is needed to avoid drag around the roof. Any fixed gear should not be trusted, but natural protection is plentiful. Climb the groove - strenuous, but with rests - taking care gaining the sloping ledge (possible belay). Move diagonally left to clear the roof and finish more easily up the groove, which is a bit loose. There is a park bench belay 15m back from the edge, but it is a stretch with 50m ropes. © Rockfax
FFA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Bruce Campbell-Kelly 1969. FA. Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1pt) 1968.
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