Rockfax Description
Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean-up and gear replacement, it is now a hard E6/7b+. Done in one pitch, it is fairly well-protected and high quality. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove, then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with tape and a junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward-to-clip (and easy to miss) bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left to a lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Dominic Lee, Daniel Lee 1983. The regrading of this route makes it the first E7 in the Peak, predating Moffatt's Verbal Abuse on Raven Tor. However it is likely that the holds used by the Lee brothers have long since fallen off so exactly how hard it.
Ticklists
Trad climbs for sport climbers , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Four years of university hit list , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Briggs | 30 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Confirm the grade in 1 pitch is now E6 6b with side runner in M1. It would feel very contrived not to do this and the route now makes for a well-protected pitch, which is a fine companion to Bastille. Despite the fixed gear, the route still has a 'trad feel'. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Confirm the grade in 1 pitch is now E6 6b with side runner in M1. It would feel very contrived not to do this and the route now makes for a well-protected pitch, which is a fine companion to Bastille. Despite the fixed gear, the route still has a 'trad feel'. |
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| Graham Hoey | 21 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Now clean. Regeared and led in one pitch Autumn 2004. Graham Hoey, Clare Reading. New grade E6 6b/c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Now clean. Regeared and led in one pitch Autumn 2004. Graham Hoey, Clare Reading. New grade E6 6b/c. |
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| Graham Hoey | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: At this grade, no side-runners would be used to enter and climb the first groove. There is a 'side-runner' at the top of this groove, in M1, which requires a move left of about ½ metre to place. The route then goes diagonally rightwards past the tied-off peg to enter the groove of V2 (bolt runner now available - it was a hex in a pocket on the first ascent). It follows V2 to the girdle break. On the first ascent the girdle was reversed to belay in M1. It is possible to take a hanging belay on old pegs in the break, (left of V2) instead. Done in one pitch it will be the most demanding route on the Tor. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: At this grade, no side-runners would be used to enter and climb the first groove. There is a 'side-runner' at the top of this groove, in M1, which requires a move left of about ½ metre to place. The route then goes diagonally rightwards past the tied-off peg to enter the groove of V2 (bolt runner now available - it was a hex in a pocket on the first ascent). It follows V2 to the girdle break. On the first ascent the girdle was reversed to belay in M1. It is possible to take a hanging belay on old pegs in the break, (left of V2) instead. Done in one pitch it will be the most demanding route on the Tor. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Heath Robinson
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Stanage North)