Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean-up and gear replacement, it is now a hard E6/7b+. Done in one pitch, it is fairly well-protected and high quality. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove, then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with tape and a junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward-to-clip (and easy to miss) bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left to a lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Dominic Lee, Daniel Lee 1983. The regrading of this route makes it the first E7 in the Peak, predating Moffatt's Verbal Abuse on Raven Tor. However it is likely that the holds used by the Lee brothers have long since fallen off so exactly how hard it.
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