UKC

Rockfax Description
Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean-up and gear replacement, it is now a hard E6/7b+. Done in one pitch, it is fairly well-protected and high quality. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove, then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with tape and a junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward-to-clip (and easy to miss) bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left to a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Dominic Lee, Daniel Lee 1983. The regrading of this route makes it the first E7 in the Peak, predating Moffatt's Verbal Abuse on Raven Tor. However it is likely that the holds used by the Lee brothers have long since fallen off so exactly how hard it.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Four years of university hit list, Hard Peak Limestone Trad

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User Date Notes
Tom Briggs 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Confirm the grade in 1 pitch is now E6 6b with side runner in M1. It would feel very contrived not to do this and the route now makes for a well-protected pitch, which is a fine companion to Bastille. Despite the fixed gear, the route still has a 'trad feel'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Confirm the grade in 1 pitch is now E6 6b with side runner in M1. It would feel very contrived not to do this and the route now makes for a well-protected pitch, which is a fine companion to Bastille. Despite the fixed gear, the route still has a 'trad feel'.
Graham Hoey 21 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Now clean. Regeared and led in one pitch Autumn 2004. Graham Hoey, Clare Reading. New grade E6 6b/c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now clean. Regeared and led in one pitch Autumn 2004. Graham Hoey, Clare Reading. New grade E6 6b/c.
Graham Hoey 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: At this grade, no side-runners would be used to enter and climb the first groove. There is a 'side-runner' at the top of this groove, in M1, which requires a move left of about ½ metre to place. The route then goes diagonally rightwards past the tied-off peg to enter the groove of V2 (bolt runner now available - it was a hex in a pocket on the first ascent). It follows V2 to the girdle break. On the first ascent the girdle was reversed to belay in M1. It is possible to take a hanging belay on old pegs in the break, (left of V2) instead. Done in one pitch it will be the most demanding route on the Tor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At this grade, no side-runners would be used to enter and climb the first groove. There is a 'side-runner' at the top of this groove, in M1, which requires a move left of about ½ metre to place. The route then goes diagonally rightwards past the tied-off peg to enter the groove of V2 (bolt runner now available - it was a hex in a pocket on the first ascent). It follows V2 to the girdle break. On the first ascent the girdle was reversed to belay in M1. It is possible to take a hanging belay on old pegs in the break, (left of V2) instead. Done in one pitch it will be the most demanding route on the Tor.

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 2
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

One Step Beyond

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)
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