Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
2 pitches.
A well protected extension to the second pitch of Delicatessen crossing amazing ground at an amenable level.
1) 5c. As for Delicatessen to the Debauchery stance.
2) 45m 6a. As for Delicatessen to where it joins Original Route but step down to the slabby rock just above its bulge. Move blindly around the arête on a good foothold (PR above) and stride right and get established on a narrow foot rail (TR at your feet at the end) Continue horizontally rightwards on off-vertical pocketed rock crossing the Supersonic crack and into Flaky Wall finishing up this.
2a) The pitch can be extended from Flaky Wall at about E4 6a across the top of Bastille with its last bolt at knee height (easiest not to clip) making crux moves up into a white recess to belay (BR and PR). A short final pitch exits the left side of the recess passing a TR to join the finish of Flaky Wall.
1) 5c. As for Delicatessen to the Debauchery stance.
2) 45m 6a. As for Delicatessen to where it joins Original Route but step down to the slabby rock just above its bulge. Move blindly around the arête on a good foothold (PR above) and stride right and get established on a narrow foot rail (TR at your feet at the end) Continue horizontally rightwards on off-vertical pocketed rock crossing the Supersonic crack and into Flaky Wall finishing up this.
2a) The pitch can be extended from Flaky Wall at about E4 6a across the top of Bastille with its last bolt at knee height (easiest not to clip) making crux moves up into a white recess to belay (BR and PR). A short final pitch exits the left side of the recess passing a TR to join the finish of Flaky Wall.
Simon Lee and Kristian Clemmow 29/Jul/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| shark | 6 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg and nut belay available to the right of the recess in the gully | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Peg and nut belay available to the right of the recess in the gully |
||||
| Tony-S | 4 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolt belay in the white recess was removed (twice). Continue to the summit at no change in grade. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The bolt belay in the white recess was removed (twice). Continue to the summit at no change in grade. |
||||
| Tony-S | 30 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing. |
||||
| shark | 24 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tony Stone as new moderator has substantially altered the description and star rating (3 stars down to 1) for this new route and reassigned it to the hybrids and linkup section. Assuming he has chopped the belay bolt (yet again) then probably the most practical way is to finish up Flaky Wall at stiff E35c which unfortunately misses out the crux and a well positioned belay in the scoop. An alternative way round to do it the original way at E3/4 6a is to leave a short hanging rope in place from the top of Flakey Wall to back up the belay peg in the scoop. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Tony Stone as new moderator has substantially altered the description and star rating (3 stars down to 1) for this new route and reassigned it to the hybrids and linkup section. Assuming he has chopped the belay bolt (yet again) then probably the most practical way is to finish up Flaky Wall at stiff E35c which unfortunately misses out the crux and a well positioned belay in the scoop. An alternative way round to do it the original way at E3/4 6a is to leave a short hanging rope in place from the top of Flakey Wall to back up the belay peg in the scoop. |
||||
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Absent Friends
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chee Dale Lower)