Rockfax Description
A superb route which has a bold reputation but isn't as bad as the old bolt may suggest (if it is even still there).
1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen).
2) 5b, 23m. A fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the hard section of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Bancroft, Adey Hubbard 1975.
Ticklists
The High Tor Top Ten , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak To Do
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UKB Shark | 28 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worth taking two red camalots (or equivalents) - one for the break (alongside a gold) and the other to back up the thread on the peg on the crux groove through the bulge | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Worth taking two red camalots (or equivalents) - one for the break (alongside a gold) and the other to back up the thread on the peg on the crux groove through the bulge |
||||
| eb202 | 21 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 should come with a warning for the "shorter" climber as it is very hard (compared to other moves on the pitch) reaching the cam break (featuring fractured and wobbly blocks) if you can't reach through to it, and you would not want to drop this move as you're reliant on poor fixed gear at this point. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 should come with a warning for the "shorter" climber as it is very hard (compared to other moves on the pitch) reaching the cam break (featuring fractured and wobbly blocks) if you can't reach through to it, and you would not want to drop this move as you're reliant on poor fixed gear at this point. |
||||
| Tigger | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks in the cam break. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks in the cam break. |
||||
| phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think it was hard for E3 gear seemed OK like Jez said use a friend. Loved this route despite the fact I was sandbagged into it - new to the crag got told it was original route - gulp | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Didn't think it was hard for E3 gear seemed OK like Jez said use a friend. Loved this route despite the fact I was sandbagged into it - new to the crag got told it was original route - gulp |
||||
| Alan James - Rockfax | 20 May, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nick, that gear has been poor since about 1980. In fact it is quite likely that it was pretty dodgy in 1975. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nick, that gear has been poor since about 1980. In fact it is quite likely that it was pretty dodgy in 1975. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Censor
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)