Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A sustained traverse with reasonable protection. Start up the wall left of the groove of M1 to the bulge. Pull over then hand traverse left (large cam useful) past a bolt until below a short vertical flake. Pull onto this and continue up and left to a thread. Pull into the crack above (good wire below a poor peg) and continue left to a good rest at the base of the prominent groove. Move up and then left (thin) to the lower-off on High Torquing. Then climb up to join A6 for its upper flake. Finish up this or at a single-bolt lower-off out left. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Fawcett 1981.
Ticklists
World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , The Festival Of Shite
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Briggs | 23 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Dom - the Rockfax diagram has the route traversing the break, with a mention of a large cam in the description. That's what I did. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Dom - the Rockfax diagram has the route traversing the break, with a mention of a large cam in the description. That's what I did. |
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| dominic lee | 21 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: In reply to Tom re clippable bolt on Peaky Blinder. ?? That’s disappointing, I took pains to place the bolts on PB to insure this didn’t happen. I wonder, when you did Roadrunner did you hand traverse the break ? That might explain it. When I do Roadrunner I hand traverse the break to roughly half way, make a difficult step up to a good runner then there’s a tenuous section to reach the thread at the end of the trav with feet in the break . The nearest bolt on Peaky by this point is well below the foot break so very difficult to clip from the position of the thread..or so I’d thought.. Very surprised to read this. Cheers . Dom. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In reply to Tom re clippable bolt on Peaky Blinder. ?? That’s disappointing, I took pains to place the bolts on PB to insure this didn’t happen. I wonder, when you did Roadrunner did you hand traverse the break ? That might explain it. When I do Roadrunner I hand traverse the break to roughly half way, make a difficult step up to a good runner then there’s a tenuous section to reach the thread at the end of the trav with feet in the break . The nearest bolt on Peaky by this point is well below the foot break so very difficult to clip from the position of the thread..or so I’d thought.. Very surprised to read this. Cheers . Dom. |
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| Tom Briggs | 12 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: This route has 2 x bolts clippable at the start of the break traverse. There’s a clippable bolt on Peaky Blinders at the end of the break before you move up to the thread. Another bolt on Fury Road is within reach before you move left to the bolt belay of High Torquing and reach the A6 break (pegs). Bolt up high and Fury Road bolted belay just above that. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route has 2 x bolts clippable at the start of the break traverse. There’s a clippable bolt on Peaky Blinders at the end of the break before you move up to the thread. Another bolt on Fury Road is within reach before you move left to the bolt belay of High Torquing and reach the A6 break (pegs). Bolt up high and Fury Road bolted belay just above that. |
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| Graham Hoey | 23 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: The maillon on A6 has been removed after cleaning the top section of the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The maillon on A6 has been removed after cleaning the top section of the route. |
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| Graham Hoey | 13 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: A6 now clean. Maillon on single bolt to be removed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A6 now clean. Maillon on single bolt to be removed. |
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| Graham Hoey | 3 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is one thread, a tape placed in June 2003. The peg has a long old (but reasonable nick) sling on it, clippable before a hard move. The bolt before the blank section is fairly new and contains a krab for lowering off High Torqueing. As re finishing up A6, read my comments under A6/Ambler Gambler. If I get time I'll clean up A6. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is one thread, a tape placed in June 2003. The peg has a long old (but reasonable nick) sling on it, clippable before a hard move. The bolt before the blank section is fairly new and contains a krab for lowering off High Torqueing. As re finishing up A6, read my comments under A6/Ambler Gambler. If I get time I'll clean up A6. |
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| Graham Hoey | 3 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is one thread, a tape placed in June 2003. The peg has a long old (but reasonable nick) sling on it, clippable before a hard move. The bolt before the blank section is fairly new and contains a krab for lowering off High Torqueing. As re finishing up A6, read my comments under A6/Ambler Gambler. If I get time I'll clean up A6. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is one thread, a tape placed in June 2003. The peg has a long old (but reasonable nick) sling on it, clippable before a hard move. The bolt before the blank section is fairly new and contains a krab for lowering off High Torqueing. As re finishing up A6, read my comments under A6/Ambler Gambler. If I get time I'll clean up A6. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Bloodrush
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Shining Clough)