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42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still worthwhile.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner below the left-hand end of the big Castellan roof, taking care with suspect rock. This is also an approach pitch to the cave.
2) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack above, then move right and up to gain the chimney. Finish up this. Be aware of loose blocks on this pitch, a result of some severe winters. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1957. Climbed during a time when free climbing on limestone was rare..

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District

Feedback

User Date Notes
smoreda 22 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end.
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βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end.
Chris the Tall 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune
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βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune
Swig 25 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit.
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βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit.
mat_galvin 25 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though
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βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though
PaulW 5 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me.
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βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me.
DrGav 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route...
βeta?
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βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route...

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 114
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 115
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Apple ArĂȘte

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Gardom's Edge)