Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still worthwhile.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner below the left-hand end of the big Castellan roof, taking care with suspect rock. This is also an approach pitch to the cave.
2) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack above, then move right and up to gain the chimney. Finish up this. Be aware of loose blocks on this pitch, a result of some severe winters. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1957. Climbed during a time when free climbing on limestone was rare..
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HaleAlex | 2 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Two jackdaw nests with chicks in the wide section of crack on the second pitch | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two jackdaw nests with chicks in the wide section of crack on the second pitch |
||||
| Scottthedog | 22 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climb today but my terrified, incompetent partner left half my rack in top pitch. If anyones been this evening would be very grateful for its return as all has sentimental value. Reward given. Please call 07852520150. If not I’ll be back to rescue in morning. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Climb today but my terrified, incompetent partner left half my rack in top pitch. If anyones been this evening would be very grateful for its return as all has sentimental value. Reward given. Please call 07852520150. If not I’ll be back to rescue in morning. |
||||
| Green_t | 14 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaw nest with tiny chicks in as of 14/05/22, deep in wide crack at the top, take care not to disturb them! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaw nest with tiny chicks in as of 14/05/22, deep in wide crack at the top, take care not to disturb them! |
||||
| smoreda | 22 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I did not think the polish was any issue. Gear is good where it matters, and then it is not to make sure you concentrate until the very end. |
||||
| Chris the Tall | 12 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Stunning route, just about worth 3 stars due to the exposure. Plenty of gear when you need it, but top end of the grade. The rose hip at the bottom could do with a prune |
||||
| Swig | 25 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good route although newcomers to limestone could find more gentle introductions especially if VS is their limit. |
||||
| mat_galvin | 25 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt VS without the polish-HVS with. Hard work getting through those 2 moves-rest of it was excellent. Gear not great but enough to keep your head together at the vital times. Not 3 stars though |
||||
| PaulW | 5 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: good route, value for VS. Crack at mid height is pretty polished which reduces it to 2 stars for me. |
||||
| DrGav | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not huge amounts of gear at all on either pitch, although partly compensated by not too much loose rock either. Some exposed & run-out laybacking. Certainly made my heart go boom! Exciting route... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gabriel
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)