UKC

Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
  • Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

Rockfax Description
© Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow Saga Lout for 3 bolts, then move left to the first of a line of new bolts bisecting Sargasso Sea. Follow these, climbing to the right of the bolts, before a long move gains a juggy rail below the belay. Swing left on this and move up carefully to the belay (or lank to it direct from the rail). There may be loose rock on the finishing moves, so don't stand beneath. A mystery route which may have been climbed previously (perhaps by the unknown equipper), but was definitely climbed on 07/08/23. This line is not the same as Sargasso Sea, which gained the rightward curving groove from the left and followed it in its entirety, probably finishing above Saga Lout's lower off.

Simon Cundy, Chris Plant, Neil Foster 07/Aug/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lofes 3 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Surprisingly good route with techy climbing and a powerful finish.. although the description is confusing as you go left of the last bolt on undercuts (unless there is some crazy line to the right)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surprisingly good route with techy climbing and a powerful finish.. although the description is confusing as you go left of the last bolt on undercuts (unless there is some crazy line to the right)
remus 18 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: The described line (staying right of the bolts at the top) felt kinda weird as there\'s obvious holds out left. Maybe a bit easier like that?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The described line (staying right of the bolts at the top) felt kinda weird as there's obvious holds out left. Maybe a bit easier like that?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for High Tor

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whose Line is it Anyway?

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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