UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the leaning groove to the break. Continue up and right then scale the crucial final wall (peg runner). Good honest hard work. The finish is often sandy. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Hardy 1988.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors)

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 6 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Description currently seems to be a bit rubbish in all guides, from the midway break with a peg up and right (good alternative cams) i assume the route actually goes up just to the left of the peg (basically straight up) on pockets not up the grove to the right on the area of loose rock this is certainly were the line of the route is drawn in several guides (original western grit that is completely wrong showing it even further left up a grotty grove). I led the poor and dangerous way on the right as the BMC guide indicates swinging right at the peg first then the excellent way on the left afterwards which was excellent. Both are pretty bold above the peg however.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Description currently seems to be a bit rubbish in all guides, from the midway break with a peg up and right (good alternative cams) i assume the route actually goes up just to the left of the peg (basically straight up) on pockets not up the grove to the right on the area of loose rock this is certainly were the line of the route is drawn in several guides (original western grit that is completely wrong showing it even further left up a grotty grove). I led the poor and dangerous way on the right as the BMC guide indicates swinging right at the peg first then the excellent way on the left afterwards which was excellent. Both are pretty bold above the peg however.
hlegge 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Getting a little overgrown in the first main crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting a little overgrown in the first main crack
Jonny2vests 30 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Fiend. This is not the only line that differs with the description either.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Fiend. This is not the only line that differs with the description either.
Fiend 23 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The line doesn't make any sense on this: The lower groove is obvious to the wide break. The Rockfax diagram shows it continuing up the obvious blocky groove and moving right beneath the heather. There are no pegs on this bit and it's maybe stiff E1 5b overall? There is a single (not two!) peg out right of the break, indicating it would be possible to climb the steep wall to the right of the groove. This would probably be more like E3 5c but it would be bold rather than hard work, and isn't the line shown.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line doesn't make any sense on this: The lower groove is obvious to the wide break. The Rockfax diagram shows it continuing up the obvious blocky groove and moving right beneath the heather. There are no pegs on this bit and it's maybe stiff E1 5b overall? There is a single (not two!) peg out right of the break, indicating it would be possible to climb the steep wall to the right of the groove. This would probably be more like E3 5c but it would be bold rather than hard work, and isn't the line shown.
carl dawson 8 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Often very sandy at the top (favoured by abseilers) Oh, also whilst here, the summit belays generally at Hobby are some sort of bolt in generally thinly-bedded rock... I wouuldn't belay on one alone, but there are plenty of big stakes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Often very sandy at the top (favoured by abseilers) Oh, also whilst here, the summit belays generally at Hobby are some sort of bolt in generally thinly-bedded rock... I wouuldn't belay on one alone, but there are plenty of big stakes.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Guillotine

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Egerton Quarry)
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