UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a nest pair of Coughs 2m right of the Grip, please stay clear of this area until the chicks have fledged. 

37m.

Rockfax Description
This route name is Penny, but it has been known as Katana (a Japanese sword) which is more descriptive of the appearance of the route line. It is a sustained affair and a real testpiece. Start just left of the crack and make a difficult and committing move to gain it. Follow the crack to join and finish up King Bee Crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is actually called Penny, however the name has been known for longer as Katana (a Japaneese sword) which is a much better name describing the look and feel of the diagonal slit across the wall. It is sustained and painful affair, and a real test-piece. Start just left of the crack, and make a difficult and committing move to gain the it. Follow it to King Bee Crack, and on to the top.

J Redhead, K Robertson 1982.

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems , North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Preparation for the Resurrection , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
dynoseb 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really good and well protected once you get going. There is a small nut (Maybe size 3 walnut?) just past the first overlap. Not really any rest on it until up high. Managed to get half way before I pumped out. Think I need to be a little fitter and place less gear.
Show beta
βeta: Really good and well protected once you get going. There is a small nut (Maybe size 3 walnut?) just past the first overlap. Not really any rest on it until up high. Managed to get half way before I pumped out. Think I need to be a little fitter and place less gear.

Logged Ascents

365 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Holyhead Mountain

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 71 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 49
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Godzilla

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)

Loading Notifications...