UKC

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

32m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall left of a grassy crack. © Rockfax

Gary Gibson, later bolted by Michael Hunt and Jane Livingstone 1998.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
CLH387 18 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Rebolted 2024. A worthwhile route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rebolted 2024. A worthwhile route
MaximumBev 29 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very slightly chossy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very slightly chossy
omchmc 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off, got scared, did eventually make my way up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fell off, got scared, did eventually make my way up.
chris_r 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Could just get back to the ground on a 60m rope.
Show beta
βeta: Could just get back to the ground on a 60m rope.
stephenmckenzie 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty chossy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty chossy
samt 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts are dreadful on this, rusty and spinning with not enough thread showing really. Coupled with the loose rock, not to be recommended. Especially for the beginners/in-experienced, with whom its seems most popular. :-(
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolts are dreadful on this, rusty and spinning with not enough thread showing really. Coupled with the loose rock, not to be recommended. Especially for the beginners/in-experienced, with whom its seems most popular. :-(
StephenJ 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Two bolts spinning half way up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two bolts spinning half way up
AndyRogers 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Probably first climbed this about 7-8 years ago. It had rusted spinning bolts then. Same ones now. Only seems to get looser and more broken with passing time- the mid way ledge is now a garden with an angled mud shelf. Some very suspect hollow sounding holds and even one of the bolts! I wont be climbing again until its had a rebolting. Might even do it myself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably first climbed this about 7-8 years ago. It had rusted spinning bolts then. Same ones now. Only seems to get looser and more broken with passing time- the mid way ledge is now a garden with an angled mud shelf. Some very suspect hollow sounding holds and even one of the bolts! I wont be climbing again until its had a rebolting. Might even do it myself.
Dale Berry 24 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: As with other routes in this area has its fair share of loose holds, particularly up to the 2nd bolt. Rather allarmingly some of the worst had plenty of chalk on! Good climbing but not quite all its cracked up to be IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As with other routes in this area has its fair share of loose holds, particularly up to the 2nd bolt. Rather allarmingly some of the worst had plenty of chalk on! Good climbing but not quite all its cracked up to be IMO.
Sazzle 27 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We did this one last night, and it makes a change to to do a big route where you can really get into a rhythmn. We used 50m twins, tied them together at the top and ab'ed down - good practice for the summer in the Alps!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We did this one last night, and it makes a change to to do a big route where you can really get into a rhythmn. We used 50m twins, tied them together at the top and ab'ed down - good practice for the summer in the Alps!
Jimmy56 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climbing all the way up - we and the other parties doing the route that day found we could lower off with a 60m (just) due to rope stretch. 11 QDs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climbing all the way up - we and the other parties doing the route that day found we could lower off with a 60m (just) due to rope stretch. 11 QDs.

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