UKC

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

27m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the slab right of the grassy crack. © Rockfax

FA. Michael Hunt, Jane Livingstone 1998.

Ticklists

Horseshoe Star Quality , LSMC to do

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Redwood 19 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a few loose holds. Especially concerning given the grade will entice inexperienced climbers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a few loose holds. Especially concerning given the grade will entice inexperienced climbers.
Will789 9 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We left a locker behind at the lower off as there is currently nothing to lower off of other than directly from the glue in bolts. If next person up wants to glue/wrench it shut that would be great
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We left a locker behind at the lower off as there is currently nothing to lower off of other than directly from the glue in bolts. If next person up wants to glue/wrench it shut that would be great
edhobartsmith 25 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Route does not dry quickly, with water running down the route even on a dry day (rained 2 days before climb). Holds break/flake off frequently so extra care is required. Belayer wearing a helmet is highly recommended.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route does not dry quickly, with water running down the route even on a dry day (rained 2 days before climb). Holds break/flake off frequently so extra care is required. Belayer wearing a helmet is highly recommended.
Jon Simpson 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some holds are quite loose so check before committing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some holds are quite loose so check before committing.
Dale Berry 11 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No where very dificult, but a good idea to check anything you are intending to use before you commit to it. Not bad, but certainly not worthy of a star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No where very dificult, but a good idea to check anything you are intending to use before you commit to it. Not bad, but certainly not worthy of a star.

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