UKC

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Rockfax Description
The fine arete has a chequered history. Originally done as a trad route climbed on either side, it is now usually done on the right because of the bolts. Loss of holds has made it harder. Another line to the right has been claimed but is a pointless eliminate. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Called the Whinger elsewhere but it is a retro-bolt of a trad route called Greedor.

FA Nick Taylor 19/Feb/1999.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 3 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The right-hand side of the arete is now really hard at around 6b+. The left-hand side of the arete was given E2 5c and may still be that but the bolts can be clipped although they are in totally the wrong place. To make it worse there is the stupid Off Limits route which really should exist. A right bloody mess to be honest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The right-hand side of the arete is now really hard at around 6b+. The left-hand side of the arete was given E2 5c and may still be that but the bolts can be clipped although they are in totally the wrong place. To make it worse there is the stupid Off Limits route which really should exist. A right bloody mess to be honest.
Bennyhtf 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No bolts until you’ve stood up on the shelf, bolted well after that but anchor requires maintenance
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No bolts until you’ve stood up on the shelf, bolted well after that but anchor requires maintenance
Bennyhtf 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lower easier part has no fixed protection until after the shelf well bolted after that but anchor is questionable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower easier part has no fixed protection until after the shelf well bolted after that but anchor is questionable

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spectre

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Halldale Quarry)

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