UKC

Restricted Access

25/01/24 NOTICE - A rockfall has occurred on the white pillar of rock on the left as you enter the main quarry floor, just before the pond. An area of loose rock was dislodged by climbers investigating new route possibilities. Rock behind which cams were placed gave way under very little load and without warning. Please do not climb on this area of rock.

This incident highlights how loose some areas of the quarry are, especially away from established lines. With this in mind it is requested that anyone wishing to add routes within the quarry always discuss plans with the BMC in advance.

 

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up to a groove and follow this to two possible finishes. Left is harder but better. The tricky move for the top is shared with both finishes and best done to the right of the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Williams, Geoff Middlehurst 2002. Including all the finishes..

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gaz_40 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found it pretty hard for the grade (did get lost part way up), top move is really tricky, finally got it from the right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found it pretty hard for the grade (did get lost part way up), top move is really tricky, finally got it from the right
Tom1 17 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tom was a little concerned about the bolt spacing and took the right hand finish. Definitely 6a for the short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tom was a little concerned about the bolt spacing and took the right hand finish. Definitely 6a for the short.
howlingbaboon 7 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I took the left hand finish (left spanner at home) and it was pretty scary moving over the overhang and clipping the last bolt before going over the top, rack a QD on your left, I forgot. Its a good move though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I took the left hand finish (left spanner at home) and it was pretty scary moving over the overhang and clipping the last bolt before going over the top, rack a QD on your left, I forgot. Its a good move though.
Chris the Tall 13 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think this route just follows the ramp (as for Write Back Home) and finishes direct with a delicate move over the overlap. 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think this route just follows the ramp (as for Write Back Home) and finishes direct with a delicate move over the overlap. 6a

Logged Ascents

160 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

Loading Notifications...