UKC Logbook - 'Whilst the Cats Away'

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The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

Last update: 04/03/2024

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Rockfax Description
A thin trad climb up the centre of the slab. Bolts on adjacent routes can be clipped to make it 6c+ish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Wall right of Patience past an old 8mm bolt. E3 6b on sportclimbs.co.uk or you can clip the bolts on Patience to make a sport route.

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User	Date		Notes
Christheclimber	10 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Only one bolt on this route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Only one bolt on this route!
meggies	16 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Direct off the deck way harder than anything else on the line. Stepping in from the right at an obvious foothold and making one move up to first ledge seems more logical at the grade. Moving from first ledge to second ledge, the natural line is a series of thin layaways and Gastons which are closer to the bolts on on Oh Brother Where Art Thou? Better to clip these. Optional good thread if needed at second ledge. Basically a two move f6c.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Direct off the deck way harder than anything else on the line. Stepping in from the right at an obvious foothold and making one move up to first ledge seems more logical at the grade. Moving from first ledge to second ledge, the natural line is a series of thin layaways and Gastons which are closer to the bolts on on Oh Brother Where Art Thou? Better to clip these. Optional good thread if needed at second ledge. Basically a two move f6c.