Rockfax Description
A very thin trad climb up the centre of the slab. Bolts on adjacent routes can be clipped to make it 6c+ish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Wall right of Patience past an old 8mm bolt. E3 6b on sportclimbs.co.uk or you can clip the bolts on Patience to make a sport route.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Christheclimber | 10 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Only one bolt on this route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Only one bolt on this route! |
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| meggies | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Direct off the deck way harder than anything else on the line. Stepping in from the right at an obvious foothold and making one move up to first ledge seems more logical at the grade. Moving from first ledge to second ledge, the natural line is a series of thin layaways and Gastons which are closer to the bolts on on Oh Brother Where Art Thou? Better to clip these. Optional good thread if needed at second ledge. Basically a two move f6c. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Direct off the deck way harder than anything else on the line. Stepping in from the right at an obvious foothold and making one move up to first ledge seems more logical at the grade. Moving from first ledge to second ledge, the natural line is a series of thin layaways and Gastons which are closer to the bolts on on Oh Brother Where Art Thou? Better to clip these. Optional good thread if needed at second ledge. Basically a two move f6c. |
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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry
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Route of Interest
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)