Rockfax Description
This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone's tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue for ever so consider it hard E3 or easy E4. Start 10m left of the end of the wall. Climb a series of cracks and bulges, with a hard move at 6m, to reach a rest below a big curving overlap. Pull out left and try and get your right hand in a slot which your left hand is in. Climb up and back right to reach the wide finishing flake/groove. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharpe, P.Lewis 15/Jul/1979.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Good E4s , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme 2018 , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GraMc | 29 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Currently a stuck no. six nut low down (not us). I had a good go at getting it out to no avail - if anyone can be bothered bringing a hammer down with them you'd be doing a public service (hammered out using a nutkey should work) before it gets rusted Insitu! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Currently a stuck no. six nut low down (not us). I had a good go at getting it out to no avail - if anyone can be bothered bringing a hammer down with them you'd be doing a public service (hammered out using a nutkey should work) before it gets rusted Insitu! |
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Andy Stewart2 | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Felt like the living end. Definitely one to avoid in slimy conditions. I climbed it in the early 90s and found it very reasonable at the time. Fast forward nearly 30 years and I was alarmed when one particular foothold gleamed with a high gloss shine. Lay down at the top feeling completely wasted, before marshalling wilted arms as a winch operator. Lol! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Felt like the living end. Definitely one to avoid in slimy conditions. I climbed it in the early 90s and found it very reasonable at the time. Fast forward nearly 30 years and I was alarmed when one particular foothold gleamed with a high gloss shine. Lay down at the top feeling completely wasted, before marshalling wilted arms as a winch operator. Lol! |
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Chad123 | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Superb, amazing etc. I'm still buzzing after doing it on Sunday. Only really two hard moves, but plenty of other pumpy ones in between and above. The excellent rest half way up helps a lot - two E3's on top of each other? As everyone says - "E3 before you do it, E4 aferwards!" Harder than all the Pembroke E3's I've done. Go do it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb, amazing etc. I'm still buzzing after doing it on Sunday. Only really two hard moves, but plenty of other pumpy ones in between and above. The excellent rest half way up helps a lot - two E3's on top of each other? As everyone says - "E3 before you do it, E4 aferwards!" Harder than all the Pembroke E3's I've done. Go do it! |
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GDes | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: another one thats steady E3, but brilliant. loads of good gear, good rests, positive holds... | βeta? | |
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βeta: another one thats steady E3, but brilliant. loads of good gear, good rests, positive holds... |
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Grade: E4 6b ***
(Huntsman's Leap)