UKC

Rockfax Description
This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone's tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue for ever so consider it hard E3 or easy E4. Start 10m left of the end of the wall. Climb a series of cracks and bulges, with a hard move at 6m, to reach a rest below a big curving overlap. Pull out left and try and get your right hand in a slot which your left hand is in. Climb up and back right to reach the wide finishing flake/groove. © Rockfax

FA. A.Sharpe, P.Lewis 15/Jul/1979.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Extreme 2018, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), E is for Easy... Right?, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, 2020/21 Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like the living end. Definitely one to avoid in slimy conditions. I climbed it in the early 90s and found it very reasonable at the time. Fast forward nearly 30 years and I was alarmed when one particular foothold gleamed with a high gloss shine. Lay down at the top feeling completely wasted, before marshalling wilted arms as a winch operator. Lol!
βeta?
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βeta: Felt like the living end. Definitely one to avoid in slimy conditions. I climbed it in the early 90s and found it very reasonable at the time. Fast forward nearly 30 years and I was alarmed when one particular foothold gleamed with a high gloss shine. Lay down at the top feeling completely wasted, before marshalling wilted arms as a winch operator. Lol!
Chad123 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, amazing etc. I'm still buzzing after doing it on Sunday. Only really two hard moves, but plenty of other pumpy ones in between and above. The excellent rest half way up helps a lot - two E3's on top of each other? As everyone says - "E3 before you do it, E4 aferwards!" Harder than all the Pembroke E3's I've done. Go do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb, amazing etc. I'm still buzzing after doing it on Sunday. Only really two hard moves, but plenty of other pumpy ones in between and above. The excellent rest half way up helps a lot - two E3's on top of each other? As everyone says - "E3 before you do it, E4 aferwards!" Harder than all the Pembroke E3's I've done. Go do it!
Ged Desforges 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: another one thats steady E3, but brilliant. loads of good gear, good rests, positive holds...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: another one thats steady E3, but brilliant. loads of good gear, good rests, positive holds...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 112
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 108
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tangerine Dream

Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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