UKC

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the triangular niche and the crack above it. From here either move left and up to the pegs, or climb the flake on the right - both 5b. Make a desperate series of moves up and left into a scoop. Step left again to another scoop to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Step up and clip a thread than move back down and traverse left in an impressive position to reach another runnel. Follow this direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Fowler 03/Apr/1984.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
kevin stephens 12 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Crux not to bad f you take the time to study holds from the ledge. IMHO peg should go, bomber nut right and slightly up before you embark on the crux
 
Show beta
βeta: Crux not to bad f you take the time to study holds from the ledge. IMHO peg should go, bomber nut right and slightly up before you embark on the crux
midgets of the world unite 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One desperate, but brilliant move. The crux sidepull seeps a little.
 
Show beta
βeta: One desperate, but brilliant move. The crux sidepull seeps a little.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 28
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Icarus

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Linney Head Area)
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