The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the triangular niche and the crack above it. From here either move left and up to the pegs, or climb the flake on the right - both 5b. Make a desperate series of moves up and left into a scoop. Step left again to another scoop to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Step up and clip a thread than move back down and traverse left in an impressive position to reach another runnel. Follow this direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Fowler 03/Apr/1984.
Extreme Rock, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
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