Rockfax Description
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the triangular niche and the crack above it. From here either move left and up to the pegs, or climb the flake on the right - both 5b. Make a desperate series of moves up and left into a scoop. Step left again to another scoop to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Step up and clip a thread than move back down and traverse left in an impressive position to reach another runnel. Follow this direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Fowler 03/Apr/1984.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembroke dreams , 6b , Extreme Rock II
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nimajneb | 4 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: The entire column up which this climbs is hollow and absolutely does not inspire any confidence in the gear for the crux which is placed entirely behind it. It\'ll come off one day. Pegs are completely fubarred. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The entire column up which this climbs is hollow and absolutely does not inspire any confidence in the gear for the crux which is placed entirely behind it. It'll come off one day. Pegs are completely fubarred. |
||||
| gem_stone12 | 3 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg is no good now. Definitely E5 - I thought even the start was pretty bold. Some tricky moves to get to the first gear. The protection for the crux is behind suspect rock too. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Peg is no good now. Definitely E5 - I thought even the start was pretty bold. Some tricky moves to get to the first gear. The protection for the crux is behind suspect rock too. |
||||
| Michael Chan | 13 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: My Partner: \"I wouldn\'t hang a coat off that peg\". | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: My Partner: "I wouldn't hang a coat off that peg". |
||||
| kevin stephens | 12 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crux not to bad f you take the time to study holds from the ledge. IMHO peg should go, bomber nut right and slightly up before you embark on the crux | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Crux not to bad f you take the time to study holds from the ledge. IMHO peg should go, bomber nut right and slightly up before you embark on the crux |
||||
| midgets of the world unite | 11 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: One desperate, but brilliant move. The crux sidepull seeps a little. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: One desperate, but brilliant move. The crux sidepull seeps a little. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Huntsman's Leap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Brave New World
Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's East)