A decent route that has a big feel due to steep terrain. The difficult finish can be avoided dropping the grade to 2. Start at the base of the Idwal Slabs.
1) Start up the slabs just to the left of the main Idwal Slabs. Climb two slabs spilt by a grass terrace via cracks and gullies that lead leftwards below the steep edge of the Idwal Slabs.
2) At the top of the second slab, go up a small path to below a chimney made by a rock step and the wall on the right.
3) The chimney is awkward but short lived and easy ground above leads to the base of Senior's Gully.
4) The steep section up and right is intimidating but has several options that are easy enough. The rock is extremely polished since this is also the climbers' descent. The best way up is a small groove that leads to the left-hand end of a small ledge about 15m above the gully. Climb the groove and foot traverse right along the small ledge to the main ledge - possible belay. Go up a short polished slab with a wide crack on its left to reach a prominent shoulder.
5) From the prominent shoulder, go up left over relatively easy rocky ground to reach a large, flat, vegetated terrace.
6) Walk to the right a short way and climb an easy slab to the next terrace.
7) From the right-hand end of the terrace, climb a steep and demanding groove to easier ground. The move is only short but feels like Diff climbing in the dry.
8) Above the climbing is much easier and leads up over rock and then grass/heather to eventually gain the same grassy plateau on Senior's Ridge.
Easier Grade-2 finish - From the vegetated terrace, go left and, after a slight dip, head up over a couple of steps of easy featured rock. There is a final slabby step here which can be particularly greasy and requires care. The follow a well-worn path leads into Cwm Cneifion next to the large prominent boulder.
Descent or continuation - Follow the path down from Cwm Cneifion or carry on up Senior's Ridge, Cneifion Arete or Maybe Tower Rib. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The tricky right-hand finish to the Direct Approach to Sneior's Ridge
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