Rockfax Description
Yorkshire's longest sport climb. Double ropes required for the abseil descent.1) 6b+, 45m. Climb Walking the Dog and continue to a belay on a ledge a little higher.2) 15m. Follow easy ledges up and rightwards to a belay behind trees in a corner.3) 6b+, 30m. Climb a small pillar on the right to an overhang and go over it to a slab. Some intricate climbing leads to easier ground and a lower-off.Descent - Abseil back down to the belay at the start of pitch 3 and then abseil straight down to the quarry floor with care - about 50m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the longest sport route in Yorkshire! It is also necessary to have an extra rope (50m) to abseil after the ascent - or better still, climb on double ropes.
1. 50m (F6b+) As for Walking the Dog but then continue to a higher belay on a grassy ledge.
2. 15m Follow easy ledges across to the right with a short step to a belay behind trees in a corner. A couple of slings (for trees) or nuts (rock 4, 5, and a 'chunky' hex) could be useful!
3. 25m (F6b+) Step right and climb the short pillar to a small overhang. A little care is needed. Pull over onto the slab above on good rock and hidden holds. It now becomes steeper and more problematic, look for the undercut left of the bolts, which allows good holds to be reached. Easier but pleasant climbing leads to a lower-off high up at the top of the quarry. Lower back down to the belay.
Abseil from the belay at the start of pitch 3, with care, straight down to quarry floor. About 40m...a 70m rope, doubled, doesn't do it!
*** Recent reports are that the top pitch is loose and vegetated. It also sports a dangerous block below the belay.
Glyn Edwards, Nigel Baker Jul/2009.
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Nigel Baker Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fakey Rocks | 16 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: To get to the higher belay above WTD, belay for Moonwalk P2 traverse, there's no intermediate bolts for 5m, until you reach that higher belay. It's fairly easy but feels insecure with at least one grassy ledge. P3 looks good on approaching the quarry but not really from the top of WTD...we didn’t fancy it so abbed off WTD's top belay ( not p2 belay as pulling ropes could get tangled in trees) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: To get to the higher belay above WTD, belay for Moonwalk P2 traverse, there's no intermediate bolts for 5m, until you reach that higher belay. It's fairly easy but feels insecure with at least one grassy ledge. P3 looks good on approaching the quarry but not really from the top of WTD...we didn’t fancy it so abbed off WTD's top belay ( not p2 belay as pulling ropes could get tangled in trees) |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Attermire Scar)