UKC

Restricted Access

Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.

Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

2023 Update - Bird restriction lifted early. No restriction from 19th July onward.

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove right of Diagonal Direct to join it at the horizontal break. Make some perplexing moves to reach a left-facing flake and finish at a lower-off up and to the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The steep yellowish groove right of Diagonal Direct (Criminal Activity) is short but quite sustained. Above this move around right, as for Diagonal, then pull up to stand on the large spike. The next few moves to gain the hanging flake are quite technical. Follow the flake stepping left to the lower-off. Easier if started up the Diagonal (F7a) and still good.

FA. A.Burnell 1993.

Ticklists

Chris Sowden U.K Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
ctodd 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd bolt (not hanger) moves a lot, didn't have a spanner to tighten.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd bolt (not hanger) moves a lot, didn't have a spanner to tighten.

Logged Ascents

25 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Langcliffe Quarry

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slap Happy

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Loup Scar)

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