Restricted Access
Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.
Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 Update - Both Peregrines and Ravens have been observed at the crag. It's not certain yet whether they are nesting. Restrictions will remain in place for now.
Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch of escalating difficulty. Climb the lower easier-angled face to a possible stance at 15m. Continue up the wall until it steepens, from where increasingly intricate climbing leads to the final bolt. Finish directly up the wall just to the right of the rib to a lower-off. An 80m rope is required to reach the ground otherwise split at the lower-off at 15m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
First pitch 20m F4, Second pitch F6a+ 25m
Ticklists
The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fakey Rocks | 16 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower off needs in situ biners / fat maillons fitting to protect those bolts from wear. Please ab off rather than lower off on these, or can someone leave a sacrificial biner on the top bolt please? Route is a bit spicey at 6a+, good injury potential if you slip on the slab. Top vertical section is nice, but there's a hard last move taking u 2m above the last bolt., but should be a safe lob. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Lower off needs in situ biners / fat maillons fitting to protect those bolts from wear. Please ab off rather than lower off on these, or can someone leave a sacrificial biner on the top bolt please? Route is a bit spicey at 6a+, good injury potential if you slip on the slab. Top vertical section is nice, but there's a hard last move taking u 2m above the last bolt., but should be a safe lob. |
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| rtdennison | 29 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is manageable in 2 pitches on a 50m rope | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Is manageable in 2 pitches on a 50m rope |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Langcliffe Quarry
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Bonhomie
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Giggleswick South)