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20m.

Rockfax Description
The thin seam splitting the wall is reached via a steep fingery crack (5c - but easily avoided) and gives pleasantly delicate moves. Protection is reasonable with enough small wires. Belay by the tree stump and finish off upwards more easily. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Clive Jones 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Lawrencefield, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
roberto18 17 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: quality route, took a few attempts with combined efforts, also my cousin took a 20 foot fall, the crux is right at the top just before the tree when u r pumped.
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βeta: quality route, took a few attempts with combined efforts, also my cousin took a 20 foot fall, the crux is right at the top just before the tree when u r pumped.
ksjs 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: start is more of a boulder problem (borderline 5c). gear is fine, gets better (bomber) as you get higher. loose block isnt really loose and takes gear which would probably help jam the block if you fall. technical crux on the route proper are the moves at the top of the main part of the climb. an excellent route but not grit / Peak E2.
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βeta: start is more of a boulder problem (borderline 5c). gear is fine, gets better (bomber) as you get higher. loose block isnt really loose and takes gear which would probably help jam the block if you fall. technical crux on the route proper are the moves at the top of the main part of the climb. an excellent route but not grit / Peak E2.
fenclimb 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First time ive noticed this is only two stars... its gotta be 3 surely. About where the crux is? who knows its all good technically hard in the lower part then easyer to work out the moves further up but it gets pumpy so feels just as hard as the lower.
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βeta: First time ive noticed this is only two stars... its gotta be 3 surely. About where the crux is? who knows its all good technically hard in the lower part then easyer to work out the moves further up but it gets pumpy so feels just as hard as the lower.
Michael Simpson 19 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the legendary loose block seems to cam itself in toplace to my mind. the difficulty of this route seems in part to do with the sustained nature of the climbing and in part to holding on whilst placing gear. Certianly hard for E1
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βeta: the legendary loose block seems to cam itself in toplace to my mind. the difficulty of this route seems in part to do with the sustained nature of the climbing and in part to holding on whilst placing gear. Certianly hard for E1
jim jones 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I placed two wires behind the "loose" block today & used it move up, seemed well keyed in to me.
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βeta: I placed two wires behind the "loose" block today & used it move up, seemed well keyed in to me.
JDDD 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I only seconded this route ages ago. I have since attempted to lead it several times since then, but whimped out at the wobbly block half way up. Is the crux below or above this. Everyone seems to say it is below, but up to the wobbly block is faily straight forward. Have I lost the plot?
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βeta: I only seconded this route ages ago. I have since attempted to lead it several times since then, but whimped out at the wobbly block half way up. Is the crux below or above this. Everyone seems to say it is below, but up to the wobbly block is faily straight forward. Have I lost the plot?
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ive only done about 5 E1s but did the start of this ok, it was the loose block that caught me out. Wish Id carried on now but was never going to trust gear behind it to hold a lead fall so put in the best bit I could and gingerly lowered off. One bold move to get to there as well, although when abbing for gear I could see the rest of the route was well-protected once a couple of moves past the block. Moral: dont do this route if like me you hate loose blocks!
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βeta: Ive only done about 5 E1s but did the start of this ok, it was the loose block that caught me out. Wish Id carried on now but was never going to trust gear behind it to hold a lead fall so put in the best bit I could and gingerly lowered off. One bold move to get to there as well, although when abbing for gear I could see the rest of the route was well-protected once a couple of moves past the block. Moral: dont do this route if like me you hate loose blocks!
Alex Mason 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i found this easy for E1 but im left handed i didnt notice but markyb says u place it all off ur left so probably better for lefties , the gear is fine by the way i had about 12 bits in
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βeta: i found this easy for E1 but im left handed i didnt notice but markyb says u place it all off ur left so probably better for lefties , the gear is fine by the way i had about 12 bits in
MNA123 10 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Where can you get hexes in?
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βeta: Where can you get hexes in?
Mike Kelly 12 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the gear was good so E1 should be the grade. It's a good climb because you have to work out the moves and it keeps you on your toes right to the top.
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βeta: Thought the gear was good so E1 should be the grade. It's a good climb because you have to work out the moves and it keeps you on your toes right to the top.
Justin Shiels 24 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Ei and very protected.
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βeta: Ei and very protected.
JMarkW 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: E2, no way. I actually thought this route was very well protected with small wires. The start is by far the hardest part of the climb.
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βeta: E2, no way. I actually thought this route was very well protected with small wires. The start is by far the hardest part of the climb.
Mark S Davies 3 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good route BUT gear not great+spaced+pumpy to place.this combined with the fairly sustained moves surely makes this route E2 5b with a 5c problem start me thinks.
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βeta: Good route BUT gear not great+spaced+pumpy to place.this combined with the fairly sustained moves surely makes this route E2 5b with a 5c problem start me thinks.
ChrisJD 9 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Overall I think the gear is poor on this route and could get someone badly in trouble, so would give it E2 for the head games.
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βeta: Overall I think the gear is poor on this route and could get someone badly in trouble, so would give it E2 for the head games.
Nick Smith - Climbers 24 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The hard starting crack seemed more like 5c to me, with the rest of the route only 5b. Hard E1/soft E2 ?
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βeta: The hard starting crack seemed more like 5c to me, with the rest of the route only 5b. Hard E1/soft E2 ?
Mountain Lass 26 Dec, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly polished and with only two small wires for protection this is still an enjoyable outing. RP's are useful as "Psychological" pro. Watch out fo the ants nest at the top in August! The Climbers Club grade of E2 is definatly more appropriate than E1 due to the lack of quality placements.
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βeta: Slightly polished and with only two small wires for protection this is still an enjoyable outing. RP's are useful as "Psychological" pro. Watch out fo the ants nest at the top in August! The Climbers Club grade of E2 is definatly more appropriate than E1 due to the lack of quality placements.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 258
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 242
Votes cast 235
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

L'Horla

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)