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20m.

Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with good rests and great positions. Climb the right wall of the open corner on edges to the arete as for Scoop Connection. Step around right to a small ledge and climb the thin fingery cracks with difficulty to a final long reach. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, York University Students path to greatness, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
ksjs 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: no, not a good first E2 - the lower section is bold and serious with no gear until you gain the arete. wires (when you gain the smaller, lower crack below and left of main crack) can be solid but are not straightforward to place. wires in the main crack are bombproof (not to mention a very solid looking peg). a very enjoyable route with some lovely moves.
 
Show beta
βeta: no, not a good first E2 - the lower section is bold and serious with no gear until you gain the arete. wires (when you gain the smaller, lower crack below and left of main crack) can be solid but are not straightforward to place. wires in the main crack are bombproof (not to mention a very solid looking peg). a very enjoyable route with some lovely moves.
Jus 6 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: great exposure! placed on 00 Friend low down and the, rest teeny nuts. Fabulouso.
 
Show beta
βeta: great exposure! placed on 00 Friend low down and the, rest teeny nuts. Fabulouso.
Alex Mason 23 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the gear is protects the route. a good 5 as you reach the arete then a 1 in the base of the crack and a 3 just before the top all bomber. the peg is in good nick at the moment too.3*
 
Show beta
βeta: the gear is protects the route. a good 5 as you reach the arete then a 1 in the base of the crack and a 3 just before the top all bomber. the peg is in good nick at the moment too.3*
Sam Doyle 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent welcome into the world of E2. Position is amazing. Gear is good once you reach the arete. Nice moves right lead to the ledge and the crux where a good wire protects a hard 5C move.
 
Show beta
βeta: An excellent welcome into the world of E2. Position is amazing. Gear is good once you reach the arete. Nice moves right lead to the ledge and the crux where a good wire protects a hard 5C move.
Aly 14 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Quality, safe route. The bottom section feels a tad bold (good gear but spaced) but the climbing is straightforward. The crux top crack is full of textbook wire placements and the peg is solid too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality, safe route. The bottom section feels a tad bold (good gear but spaced) but the climbing is straightforward. The crux top crack is full of textbook wire placements and the peg is solid too.
Ropeboy 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Quite steady to the top crack which requires a stiff couple of pulls on just adequate gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite steady to the top crack which requires a stiff couple of pulls on just adequate gear.
Jon Greengrass 28 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not one for hot conditions?? The friction ain't important, brushing the piles of dust off the holds is! The moves are more slate than grit,rockovers between tiny edges, get your stiffest boots on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not one for hot conditions?? The friction ain't important, brushing the piles of dust off the holds is! The moves are more slate than grit,rockovers between tiny edges, get your stiffest boots on.
Graham Hoey 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent wire when you first reach the arete. Poor Friend in horizontal slot makes the moves right feel scary, but peg slots and ledges are good. Once here excellent wire protection and the occasional peg exist for the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent wire when you first reach the arete. Poor Friend in horizontal slot makes the moves right feel scary, but peg slots and ledges are good. Once here excellent wire protection and the occasional peg exist for the crux.
Justin Shiels 13 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Poor protection
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poor protection
Mark S Davies 10 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: great route and exposure but the gears a bit crap and the crux is well hard. wont do as a first E2!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route and exposure but the gears a bit crap and the crux is well hard. wont do as a first E2!
Nick Smith - Climbers 11 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Only one 5c move on the whole route, but it's a tricky one. Great moves, pretty good gear. Fab :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only one 5c move on the whole route, but it's a tricky one. Great moves, pretty good gear. Fab :-)

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 182
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 180
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Dangler

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)