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18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack to its end then the steep wall on good, spaced holds. Finish up the curving crack or easier, head right. Sandy. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500

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User Date Notes
GT87 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was first HVS turns out its only VS, which it should be pretty easy climb.
 
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was first HVS turns out its only VS, which it should be pretty easy climb.
Paul Tomo 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought it was easy for a HVS, it's more like a VS than a HVS, the best moves are at the last section and loads of gear placements if needed, still a good route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought it was easy for a HVS, it's more like a VS than a HVS, the best moves are at the last section and loads of gear placements if needed, still a good route though.
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: P.S. Nova, to the right, is much better.
βeta?
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βeta: P.S. Nova, to the right, is much better.
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Following the curving crack (leftwards) at the top probably warrants HVS, but most of the climb is too easy and mucky.
βeta?
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βeta: Following the curving crack (leftwards) at the top probably warrants HVS, but most of the climb is too easy and mucky.
GrahamD 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Grade aside, its a nice little route.
βeta?
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βeta: Grade aside, its a nice little route.
Crammy 19 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: So where's the 5a move?? I thought the 4b move on Nova next door was harder than anything on here. Very pleasant route but it can't be HVS 'cause I led it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So where's the 5a move?? I thought the 4b move on Nova next door was harder than anything on here. Very pleasant route but it can't be HVS 'cause I led it.
Scott 9 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: some moves a bit necky- but the pro behind them is good- you'd swing but not deck. Enjoyed it.
βeta?
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βeta: some moves a bit necky- but the pro behind them is good- you'd swing but not deck. Enjoyed it.
Reuben Brown 8 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree: soft HVS when taken direct (one 5a move), much easier without (HS?)...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree: soft HVS when taken direct (one 5a move), much easier without (HS?)...
Monk 9 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The BMC guide shows the top out as using the right hand crack. If you go direct up the curving crack it is a bit harder and I think it may warrant an easy HVS. If not it is certainly hard for VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The BMC guide shows the top out as using the right hand crack. If you go direct up the curving crack it is a bit harder and I think it may warrant an easy HVS. If not it is certainly hard for VS.
Nick Smith - Climbers 21 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This can't possibly be HVS - no more than VS 5a or even 4c. Gets very sandy after rain, but never-the-less a nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This can't possibly be HVS - no more than VS 5a or even 4c. Gets very sandy after rain, but never-the-less a nice route.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 292
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 205
Votes cast 243
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Moneylender's Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)