Rockfax Description
III, 850m, 6 - 8 hours. A varied and atmospheric route which doesn't see that much traffic but is well worth seeking out when in condition. Incredibly the route has been skied, which, when you're halfway up it will seem even more ridiculous than it does when looking at the face from a distance!
1) Cross the bergschrund (usually not too much of a problem) and head up and left over 50 degree ice to reach a wide snowy runnel immediately right of the Northeast Spur (this was once a decent route itself but is now very rarely climbed due to increasingly loose rock).
2) Follow the runnel over some 55 degree sections and then drift back right towards the middle of the North Face until beneath a rocky, mixed ramp.
3) Climb this to reach another wide runnel heading back towards the Northeast Spur.
4) At the top of the runnel, follow the exposed gully out right onto the final snowfield.
5) Climb the snowfield to the summit. The angle is consistently between 50 and 55 degrees and there is not much protection - keep concentrating! It is possible to break out rightwards near the top if you are descending into the Talèfre Basin and are pushed for time. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A companion North Face climb to the Swiss Route


Emma and Will go the the Alps


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High D+
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Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
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Route of Interest
East Face

Grade: D ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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