Rockfax Description
IV, 800m, 6 - 8 hours. A true alpine classic which is many climbers first foray into icy 'grandes courses'. In anything other than icy conditions, protection is limited, although it is usually possible to place ice screws on the crux pitch.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a series of runnels, heading towards the crux. Generally the line drifts continually rightwards and the exact line taken will depend on conditions but there will always be some short steps which kick up to 65/70 degrees. Belay on the right at the bottom of the distinctive runnel.
2) Although it can be split, the crux runnel is better (and faster) climbed in one long 55m pitch. It is briefly around 80-85 degrees and usually takes ice screws and the odd bit of rock protection in cracks on the right.
3) Once above crux, climb the snowfield straight up the middle, heading for some slightly steeper ground which can be mixed in thin conditions.
4) Follow the mixed ground (Scottish 3) for 70m to reach the top snowfield.
5) Follow the snowfield directly to the summit. © Rockfax


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Grande Courses , Alpine Dreamz , Big Alpine Routes , Road to Dru Couloir Direct


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Grade: TD- 6a+ ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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