350m.

Rockfax Description
II, 155m, 3 hours. The classic of the Triangle and one of the busiest routes in Chamonix, this route deserves its good reputation but can be tricky to find quiet. A night in the comfortable Refuge des Cosmiques may be worth the money to ensure some peace! The route varies greatly from month to month but should climbable just about every day of the year, weather permitting. The route is easily visible from the Refuge des Cosmiques and the top half is visible from the campsites in Les Bossons! The pitches described here can be split by intermediate belays. Begin by climbing the lower snow slopes (45 degrees, possible serac danger) to reach a belay on the left.
1) 35m. The snow slope continues and then steepens slightly to 50 degrees leading to a bolt belay on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Step left and climb the gully above. This has sections of 70 degree ice and can be mixed in thin conditions. It leads to the foot of the crux pitch and a belay on a comfortable ledge on the right.
3) 4, 40m. The crux of the route - the ice kicks up to 85 degrees here. The pitch is often stepped out due to the amount of traffic it sees and it is well protected by ice screws and the occasional peg on the right wall.
4) 3+, 30m. Slightly less steep, at around 75 degrees, this short step of ice marks the end of the difficulties.
Descent - Either abseil down the route (be aware of people underneath you when abseiling) or continue up moderate snowy mixed ground to a junction with the Contamine-Mazeaud and then onto the summit of the Triangle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Couloir ice climb. Approach from Midi Station or Abri Simond Bivouac Hut in less than one hour. Cross bergshrund and then climb about 11 pitches to the top. Can descend from the normal route leading up Mt. Blanc du Tacul or if not too busy in the couloir, rappel the route to it's start (Most people abseil off after 5 pitches - fixed belays).

R. Chere and J. Tranchant 18/Aug/1973

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Kike Kikon 30 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Local guides normally advise against climbing it if tehres black ice, but its perfectly feasible in such conditions. It just gets a little more technical than when its good neve (and maybe not as enjoyable) First 100m can be simul vlimbed if confident enough, or in two 50ish m pitches until the first belay on the rock
 
Show beta
βeta: Local guides normally advise against climbing it if tehres black ice, but its perfectly feasible in such conditions. It just gets a little more technical than when its good neve (and maybe not as enjoyable) First 100m can be simul vlimbed if confident enough, or in two 50ish m pitches until the first belay on the rock
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tom Seccombe 6 Oct AltLd O/S
with Danny Tazy
with Danny Tazy
Hidden 24 Jun AltLd dnf
Hidden 24 Jun AltLd O/S
James Rigby 24 Jun AltLd O/S Lots of spindrift that I seemed to attract ;) good route despite debris from other parties(which whacked my elbow)
with Will Dixon
Lots of spindrift that I seemed to attract ;) good route despite debris from other parties(which whacked my elbow)
with Will Dixon
steve_gibbs 24 Jun AltLd dnf Bailed due to thin ice on P3, thanks to the current heatwave!
with Tom Alford
Bailed due to thin ice on P3, thanks to the current heatwave!
with Tom Alford
iainballantyne 19 Jun AltLd O/S Broke the front point off my crampon on lead just to add to the excitement. Being first on the route, all the screws being as good as bolts and it being hooked out made this very pleasurable. Will ran it out pretty hard as well which was well impressive
Broke the front point off my crampon on lead just to add to the excitement. Being first on the route, all the screws being as good as bolts and it being hooked out made this very pleasurable. Will ran it out pretty hard as well which was well impressive
WillHempstead 19 Jun AltLd O/S first on route after camping on the glacier, totally worth it
with iainballantyne, Rob Giddy
first on route after camping on the glacier, totally worth it
with iainballantyne, Rob Giddy
Robertgiddy 19 Jun AltLd O/S Great route, worth bivying to be first on route. Good lead of crux by Will.
Great route, worth bivying to be first on route. Good lead of crux by Will.
lukas_s 18 Jun AltLd Again starting from the hut is the way to go. Had the route to ourselfs.
Again starting from the hut is the way to go. Had the route to ourselfs.
7toes 17 Jun Lead
with Tom G
with Tom G
CarlosTT 17 Jun Lead rpt Easier than last year but better ice quality.
Easier than last year but better ice quality.
Hidden 30 May -
Dougie 18 Apr 2nd Skied in from Cosmiques Refuge and had the Route to ourselves, then skied down Valle Blanche, Montenevers
with Andy L
Skied in from Cosmiques Refuge and had the Route to ourselves, then skied down Valle Blanche, Montenevers
with Andy L
Hidden 8 Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden ?? -
Cragcloud 12 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Bailed after second pitch as rocks started falling down. Was not in condition.
with Søren Andersen
Bailed after second pitch as rocks started falling down. Was not in condition.
with Søren Andersen
jayray 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd
lost.arrow 29 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 Lead
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
Gemmazrobo 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Second ice route and first proper winter route lead, had it all to ourselves as well! Late start meant missing the last lift down and a rush for working at 8am next day in Cham. Great fun. Somewhat thin but solid, no screws for first pitch and bergsrund not so fun but greatly improved as went up.
with Julian
Second ice route and first proper winter route lead, had it all to ourselves as well! Late start meant missing the last lift down and a rush for working at 8am next day in Cham. Great fun. Somewhat thin but solid, no screws for first pitch and bergsrund not so fun but greatly improved as went up.
with Julian
ReubenKouidri 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dan Radford 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S With Reubs. Late start and route to ourselves. Got caught in an electrical storm on the walk back to our tent with bolts hitting the ground a few hundred meters away. All of our gear was hissing loudly with static electricity. Definitely puts the heart in the throat
With Reubs. Late start and route to ourselves. Got caught in an electrical storm on the walk back to our tent with bolts hitting the ground a few hundred meters away. All of our gear was hissing loudly with static electricity. Definitely puts the heart in the throat
CarlosTT 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
George.D 12 Jul, 2018 Lead
Al_Mac 11 Jul, 2018 -
with Louie, Robbie B
with Louie, Robbie B
TheFasting 11 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed up past the crux but had to bail before the last pitch to make the lift. Still satisfied even though we didn't have time for the last pitch
with Johan
Climbed up past the crux but had to bail before the last pitch to make the lift. Still satisfied even though we didn't have time for the last pitch
with Johan
Robbie Blease 11 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Brilliant route! I ended up leading the whole thing somehow, not complaining!
with Louis, Aly
Brilliant route! I ended up leading the whole thing somehow, not complaining!
with Louis, Aly
TheFasting 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Got below the crux and had to bail due to lack of time to make the lift, and the sun sent down various sizes of ice cubes from the top
with Johan
Got below the crux and had to bail due to lack of time to make the lift, and the sun sent down various sizes of ice cubes from the top
with Johan
sroelants 8 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
yakov 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd Route kept falling down while we were on it. Dug deep and found decent protection, though. Did mixed step to the right in the start of the gully due to the falling ice. My partner lost a crampon half way up the crux pitch, but he finished in good style. Didn't make a big difference in the soft snice! Only took one 60 meter rope, so we had to down climb some sections which made things more complicated than it needed.
Route kept falling down while we were on it. Dug deep and found decent protection, though. Did mixed step to the right in the start of the gully due to the falling ice. My partner lost a crampon half way up the crux pitch, but he finished in good style. Didn't make a big difference in the soft snice! Only took one 60 meter rope, so we had to down climb some sections which made things more complicated than it needed.
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 AltLd
Kike Kikon 8 May, 2018 AltLd Dry and with black ice (though pretty stepped). Local guides advised us against climbing it, but its perfectly feasible in such conditions. It just gets a tad more technical than when its good neve. Simul-climbed the first 100m ish ramp, lead p3 and p4 and abseiled off instead of topping out the triangle. Good introduction to alpine routes or for acclimatisation.
with flo1
Dry and with black ice (though pretty stepped). Local guides advised us against climbing it, but its perfectly feasible in such conditions. It just gets a tad more technical than when its good neve. Simul-climbed the first 100m ish ramp, lead p3 and p4 and abseiled off instead of topping out the triangle. Good introduction to alpine routes or for acclimatisation.
with flo1
davidswannn 6 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 27 Mar, 2018 2nd rpt
pugilistswine 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Blackcountrybill 14 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd
DigitalSteak 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd
chiverstom 25 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Several parties on route and poor ice mean lots of falling debris. First pitch only
Several parties on route and poor ice mean lots of falling debris. First pitch only
Hidden 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd rpt
JackM92 21 Sep, 2017 AltLd Pretty mixed which made it better. Really straightforward, no way is this WI4. Good rock gear to the sides. Climbed 4 long pitches beyond initial icefield and abseiled off
Pretty mixed which made it better. Really straightforward, no way is this WI4. Good rock gear to the sides. Climbed 4 long pitches beyond initial icefield and abseiled off
Matt Amos 20 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S First alpine ice route, which we had pretty much all to ourselves. A great day and in guidebook time, but I can see how it wouldn't be fun on a busy day.
First alpine ice route, which we had pretty much all to ourselves. A great day and in guidebook time, but I can see how it wouldn't be fun on a busy day.
Dexter JW 20 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Pretty Gnarly! First ice climb, apparently conditions weren't great but I can't really comment
Pretty Gnarly! First ice climb, apparently conditions weren't great but I can't really comment
David Horwood 19 Sep, 2017 -
Rhys Deane 15 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack Matcalf
with Jack Matcalf
Theo Mossop 29 Jul, 2017 2nd β
Hugh Irving 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Felt pretty Scottish, what with the poor conditions and weather. Basically the whole thing was falling down on us. Theo's first time up high, which he took in his stride.
Felt pretty Scottish, what with the poor conditions and weather. Basically the whole thing was falling down on us. Theo's first time up high, which he took in his stride.
BarneyLoosemore 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent day, lots of fresh powder which made the approach tiring as the walk in to the Tacul was untracked. Cold - about minus 10. We were alone on the Tacul for the majority of the day, which made for a very atmospheric experience
with WGEvans
Excellent day, lots of fresh powder which made the approach tiring as the walk in to the Tacul was untracked. Cold - about minus 10. We were alone on the Tacul for the majority of the day, which made for a very atmospheric experience
with WGEvans
WGEvans 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 8 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Munkynutz 8 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf Got caught behind some very slow groups, lot of loose ice coming down. Got cold, got hit with a large block and cracked my helmet, got spooked so bailed a base of crux pitch. Getting the first lift is important for this route!
Got caught behind some very slow groups, lot of loose ice coming down. Got cold, got hit with a large block and cracked my helmet, got spooked so bailed a base of crux pitch. Getting the first lift is important for this route!
Txitxar 22 May, 2017 Lead
CRead 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Got stuck behind an american team who were hacking everything they could out of the route. Death trap. Not fun.
Got stuck behind an american team who were hacking everything they could out of the route. Death trap. Not fun.
tom_drysdale 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Good introduction to ice climbing but stepped all the way. Led p2, Connor led p3. The team ahead were slow and kept throwing large chunks of ice down, one of which caught me in the face. Ended up abseiling after p3 to get back to the lift in time. Not a bad day but now out of money so leaving chamonix for the val di mello
with CRead
Good introduction to ice climbing but stepped all the way. Led p2, Connor led p3. The team ahead were slow and kept throwing large chunks of ice down, one of which caught me in the face. Ended up abseiling after p3 to get back to the lift in time. Not a bad day but now out of money so leaving chamonix for the val di mello
with CRead
luckyjim 27 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with D Helm
with D Helm
Hidden ?Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
alex.serban ?Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf Dry with almost no snow. Hard ice. Very cold. Had to retreat after the 3rd pitch due to an injury.
Dry with almost no snow. Hard ice. Very cold. Had to retreat after the 3rd pitch due to an injury.
janegallwey 20 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
adie84 ??, 2017 -
mBob8 30 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead crux, pretty dry hard ice
Lead crux, pretty dry hard ice
sam_cash 7 Oct, 2016 Lead
Hidden 20 Sep, 2016 AltLd
steve7734 20 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice route! Led the crux pitch
Nice route! Led the crux pitch
George.D 10 Sep, 2016 2nd
Freshprintce 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd
lukegorman 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S joe led the bulk of the route. amazing
joe led the bulk of the route. amazing
JoeCoxson 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Route of the trip. Three teams on the route, so not disastrously busy, and we abseiled so no rushing. Lead P1,3,4 & 5. Loved every minute of it.
Route of the trip. Three teams on the route, so not disastrously busy, and we abseiled so no rushing. Lead P1,3,4 & 5. Loved every minute of it.
MassivePunter 22 Aug, 2016 2nd "What's the difference between peanut butter and jam?" Still the funniest joke I've ever heard on a belay courtesy of Richard Willis!
"What's the difference between peanut butter and jam?" Still the funniest joke I've ever heard on a belay courtesy of Richard Willis!
alan1234 22 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Richard Willis, MassivePunter
with Richard Willis, MassivePunter
j.anstee 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S With Guide but Alt Lead skills Trg.
With Guide but Alt Lead skills Trg.
AndyT1151 2 Aug, 2016 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt
Aislinn_sun ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Andre Clarke 22 Jul, 2016 -
with Julian Prieto
with Julian Prieto
bogpetre 18 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt Fast climb, made it to down and up to Albert 1er by the end of the day.
Fast climb, made it to down and up to Albert 1er by the end of the day.
Julian Prieto 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
cliffy 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Murilo Lessa ?Jul, 2016 -
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim ?Jul, 2016 -
alooker ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
bencoope ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
markflanagan 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd First lift and first on the route! Super climbing and loads of gear. Ab off after pitch 5. Would be nice to finish and summit the tacul but conditions were not good on the normal route.
First lift and first on the route! Super climbing and loads of gear. Ab off after pitch 5. Would be nice to finish and summit the tacul but conditions were not good on the normal route.
cwildblood 24 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Doug miller 24 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Stayed in the Bivvy near Cosmiques and was up at 2am and were the first on the route. Had the entire Col de Midi to ourselves for several hours which was magical. Didn't see anyone else till we had started to Ab off and met a couple parties below us.
Stayed in the Bivvy near Cosmiques and was up at 2am and were the first on the route. Had the entire Col de Midi to ourselves for several hours which was magical. Didn't see anyone else till we had started to Ab off and met a couple parties below us.
harry_lewis 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S good ice, led first and third ice sections and moved together on snowy bits
with Matt Harmon
good ice, led first and third ice sections and moved together on snowy bits
with Matt Harmon
Matt Harmon 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S led second ice section (crux), moved together on all other bits, continued above the ice for about 100m before deciding to abseil back down
led second ice section (crux), moved together on all other bits, continued above the ice for about 100m before deciding to abseil back down
Liam Watson 14 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with DavidMcK, Martini
with DavidMcK, Martini
Cragcloud 5 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sigurður Ý. Richter
with Sigurður Ý. Richter
scorpia97 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd Approached in shin to knee deep snow, simul climbed the first mixed pitch. Fairly lean/dry and then pitched the next. Abbed off before the last (proper) pitch into a full on blizzard and only just made the last service lift down.
Approached in shin to knee deep snow, simul climbed the first mixed pitch. Fairly lean/dry and then pitched the next. Abbed off before the last (proper) pitch into a full on blizzard and only just made the last service lift down.
Kirill 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd
mike.moss 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Kirill
with Kirill
Hidden 22 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
frejashannon 22 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
monsteratt ?Jan, 2016 AltLd Very windy day. Not much snow in Goulotte Allemande so did this instead. Skied the valley blanche afterwards all the way to Chamonix (that was hard work).
with Rich B
Very windy day. Not much snow in Goulotte Allemande so did this instead. Skied the valley blanche afterwards all the way to Chamonix (that was hard work).
with Rich B
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Josh Wade ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Richard Kendrick ??, 2016 -
with Stanley
with Stanley
Hidden 30 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 30 Dec, 2015 2nd First ice climb (other than indoors in Manchester!). Lots of people on the route, going at different speeds, and some of them rappelling down whilst others were going up definitely added to the challenge! Abbed down after the steep ice pitches.
First ice climb (other than indoors in Manchester!). Lots of people on the route, going at different speeds, and some of them rappelling down whilst others were going up definitely added to the challenge! Abbed down after the steep ice pitches.
DigitalSteak 28 Dec, 2015 AltLd
Graeme Barr 28 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with Hannah W, DigitalSteak
with Hannah W, DigitalSteak
Graeme Barr 23 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with Daniel
with Daniel
Andy Lagan 26 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 24 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt
alpinestar_no1 8 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt Just the steep pitches after some atempts on german gully/Les Temps est Assassin
with Jakob Fisker
Just the steep pitches after some atempts on german gully/Les Temps est Assassin
with Jakob Fisker
DaveThexton 27 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Jenn_Stretton 27 Sep, 2015 2nd
bogpetre 24 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S First grade 4 ice.
First grade 4 ice.
Graeme Barr 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd
DigitalSteak 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd
adamre12 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S First proper ice lead. Was very busy, and was hit by a lot of falling ice, one even cracked my helmet! Great route with great ice.
with JamesA
First proper ice lead. Was very busy, and was hit by a lot of falling ice, one even cracked my helmet! Great route with great ice.
with JamesA
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
heghedush 6 Sep, 2015 2nd
TBromley 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
gallonj 24 Aug, 2015 -
AshBash 5 Jul, 2015 - First ice route, things went wrong on first pitch got scared and my mate led the rest aha!
First ice route, things went wrong on first pitch got scared and my mate led the rest aha!
CMoore 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd Great but very busy.
with tunnah
Great but very busy.
with tunnah
tunnah 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
davkeo 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt Blue sky day and great fun. Crusty sugary snow on route.
Blue sky day and great fun. Crusty sugary snow on route.
niallsash 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd
scarmichael 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Excellent first alpine route in a quality setting, 2x 60m ropes very useful for quick descent
Excellent first alpine route in a quality setting, 2x 60m ropes very useful for quick descent
Marc Langley 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2015 -
Euan Todd 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Felt pretty shagged from a few days on the go, but led the upper steep pitch - had to take it slow and steady, lots of careful resting. Great fun route though, so much ice, so little commitment!
with Adz
Felt pretty shagged from a few days on the go, but led the upper steep pitch - had to take it slow and steady, lots of careful resting. Great fun route though, so much ice, so little commitment!
with Adz
Hugh Simons 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead all the steep pitches. Ice was in good nick. Cloudy and cool day meant it felt pretty Scottish apart from a lack of wind! Great climbing.
with AliRLee
Lead all the steep pitches. Ice was in good nick. Cloudy and cool day meant it felt pretty Scottish apart from a lack of wind! Great climbing.
with AliRLee
steveforgrieve 9 Jun, 2015 2nd Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey
Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey
sj87 9 Jun, 2015 2nd
cmars89 15 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Abbed off after the crux, my hands were gone, knackered.
with Ryan Weber
Abbed off after the crux, my hands were gone, knackered.
with Ryan Weber
smithaldo 19 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Ridiculously easy and stepped out. Have seen WI4 banded about as a grade, more like WI2+.
with Clegg
Ridiculously easy and stepped out. Have seen WI4 banded about as a grade, more like WI2+.
with Clegg
Mr-Cowdrey 10 Mar, 2015 2nd dnf Party on every pitch, made it to second belay which we were sharing and so decided to bail as ice was falling everywhere and one chap was abseiling down any way.
with Dane Burns
Party on every pitch, made it to second belay which we were sharing and so decided to bail as ice was falling everywhere and one chap was abseiling down any way.
with Dane Burns
Hidden 9 Mar, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12 Feb, 2015 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10 Oct, 2014 Lead
ndraper1 5 Oct, 2014 - great conditions compared to last time!
great conditions compared to last time!
robgixer 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 AltLd rpt
Alpenglow 15 Sep, 2014 - Great route, first proper steep Ice but found easier than I was expecting as it was quite stepped out.
with V11
Great route, first proper steep Ice but found easier than I was expecting as it was quite stepped out.
with V11
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 -
joe_lancs 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd
surf1nal-kern0w 12 Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Katie S 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S katie led 1 and 2 and i linked 3 and 4. super scary!
with Katie S
katie led 1 and 2 and i linked 3 and 4. super scary!
with Katie S
hoppojoe7 8 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S good protection, good ice, very trodden.
good protection, good ice, very trodden.
MrRiley 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S First on route after staying at the Cosmiques, superb conditions, abbed after ice pitches, cracking route!
with Richard Hines
First on route after staying at the Cosmiques, superb conditions, abbed after ice pitches, cracking route!
with Richard Hines
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 -
planetmarshall 6 Sep, 2014 Lead Utterly fantastic condition. First on the route and didn't see another party all day. Ascended to the summit and back down the standard route.
Utterly fantastic condition. First on the route and didn't see another party all day. Ascended to the summit and back down the standard route.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 -
7toes 2 Sep, 2014 -
with DamianR
with DamianR
alexm198 ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S First team on the route having bivvied at the Col du Midi. Pretty stepped out so steady going. Gorgeous plastic ice all the way up, rapped off after the difficulties (4 pitches). Led P1,3
with Matt Harle, James Thompson
First team on the route having bivvied at the Col du Midi. Pretty stepped out so steady going. Gorgeous plastic ice all the way up, rapped off after the difficulties (4 pitches). Led P1,3
with Matt Harle, James Thompson
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 -
davkeo ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Led all pitches. Never hard and very enjoyable. Bivied in peroux hut and first on route at 5.30am.
Led all pitches. Never hard and very enjoyable. Bivied in peroux hut and first on route at 5.30am.
davkeo ?Sep, 2014 Solo rpt
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Matt Harle ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
leeoftroy ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Couldn't resist doing it again as Ed hadn't before. Took alt route to right at top. Nice mixed section. With Ed.
Couldn't resist doing it again as Ed hadn't before. Took alt route to right at top. Nice mixed section. With Ed.
Webster ?Sep, 2014 Solo first alpine solo, and what a route! amazing quality ice all the way and good mixed climbing to the top of the triangle
first alpine solo, and what a route! amazing quality ice all the way and good mixed climbing to the top of the triangle
Callum Smith 28 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Superb, as good as ice gets. Little to no hooking and bomber screws! Stayed in bivi hut by cosmiques and were second on route, rapping was tricky due to traffic. 2 hours berg to abseils. Lead all pitches.
Superb, as good as ice gets. Little to no hooking and bomber screws! Stayed in bivi hut by cosmiques and were second on route, rapping was tricky due to traffic. 2 hours berg to abseils. Lead all pitches.
Tom Campbell 26 Aug, 2014 - stepped out, rapped after the good pitches, very busy
stepped out, rapped after the good pitches, very busy
Goodstuff 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S First high-altitude vertical ice climb. Crux headwall. Very busy. Awesome!
with Dave Sawyer
First high-altitude vertical ice climb. Crux headwall. Very busy. Awesome!
with Dave Sawyer
mim tiller 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
McPhail92 17 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
David Staples 17 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Guss1 13 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Adamski1986 10 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Richard Gage
with Richard Gage
Hidden 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd
MartF 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Long day. Completed route and walked down from the Tacul, didn't go to the summit. Caught 2nd lift in the morning, back to the lift by 6:45pm. Lift then delayed 1 hour by thunderstorm cuitting the electric, spent an hour sat in the Plan station regailing tourists with tales of sleeping on the toilet floor...
with Stu Spencer
Long day. Completed route and walked down from the Tacul, didn't go to the summit. Caught 2nd lift in the morning, back to the lift by 6:45pm. Lift then delayed 1 hour by thunderstorm cuitting the electric, spent an hour sat in the Plan station regailing tourists with tales of sleeping on the toilet floor...
with Stu Spencer
matty123 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
Paul Collins ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Neil Byrne
with Neil Byrne
Hidden 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd
DigitalSteak 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd rpt Crux pitch has very rotten ice, much more exciting..
Crux pitch has very rotten ice, much more exciting..
BoulderyDave 16 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2014 -
Craig Holden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S can see why it is so popular. Great ice though top pitch rather stepped out. Abd off at end of ice pitches.
with Alex Toomey
can see why it is so popular. Great ice though top pitch rather stepped out. Abd off at end of ice pitches.
with Alex Toomey
alex toomey 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd rpt
JakeWShaw 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead until first 80+ deg section. Micki lead two steepest pitches. Ace conditions and first on the route, wouldn't recommend doing if you weren't in the first 2 or 3 parties but amazing if you are. Lots of ice was getting kicked down whilst we abbed.
Lead until first 80+ deg section. Micki lead two steepest pitches. Ace conditions and first on the route, wouldn't recommend doing if you weren't in the first 2 or 3 parties but amazing if you are. Lots of ice was getting kicked down whilst we abbed.
MSchobitz 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S First on route, great ice, even if it was covered in powder from the days before. Absolutely fantastic day. Abbed off after the last ice step.
First on route, great ice, even if it was covered in powder from the days before. Absolutely fantastic day. Abbed off after the last ice step.
Nemmie ?Jul, 2014 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden
with Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden
Ross L 26 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with Matt Helliker
with Matt Helliker
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Gibbo 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Sash Coombes
with Sash Coombes
johnrich 16 Jun, 2014 2nd
johnmctighe 13 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Really good ice climbing. Was a bit easy as the ice was very featured with big bucket steps for the feet. Plenty of fixed and normal rock pro available and fixed belays. A couple of ice screws is ample.
with Andy Owen
Really good ice climbing. Was a bit easy as the ice was very featured with big bucket steps for the feet. Plenty of fixed and normal rock pro available and fixed belays. A couple of ice screws is ample.
with Andy Owen
DigitalSteak 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Great route, one other party on it. Yes it is stepped out but great climbing nonetheless.
Great route, one other party on it. Yes it is stepped out but great climbing nonetheless.
simon_D 7 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Good ice route with steep sections, but very stepped out! probably the most climbed ice route from the midi
with Edvin
Good ice route with steep sections, but very stepped out! probably the most climbed ice route from the midi
with Edvin
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
niallsash ?Jun, 2014 Lead
Piglet69 ?Jun, 2014 -
Rob Royle 31 May, 2014 2nd Great days climbing in lovely weather! Not too many other groups on the route. I lead the first 2 pitches and then Seb, our guide, lead the next 3. Abseiled back down after 5 pitches to make the last lift down from the Midi.
with Mountain Guide, Steph
Great days climbing in lovely weather! Not too many other groups on the route. I lead the first 2 pitches and then Seb, our guide, lead the next 3. Abseiled back down after 5 pitches to make the last lift down from the Midi.
with Mountain Guide, Steph
Hidden 14 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Ulgrid 14 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Ascent past the tope of ther triangle - lots of chossy rocks so descent down the normal route of the Tacul.
Ascent past the tope of ther triangle - lots of chossy rocks so descent down the normal route of the Tacul.
Grant Fulton ?Apr, 2014 Lead
Gumery ?Apr, 2014 2nd
Hidden 31 Mar, 2014 Lead
Hidden 18 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Feb, 2014 AltLd
chapmand 9 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Rory Brown
with Rory Brown
waiting for snow ?Feb, 2014 AltLd
ndraper1 29 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Bullet ice on approach slopes. Good neve on crux pitches. Un-forecasted high winds quickly developed between 3rd-4th pitch and lead to a battle with furious spin drift. Abbed off after 4th pitch. Extremely cold (-18 + wind). Long descent back to Chamonix.
Bullet ice on approach slopes. Good neve on crux pitches. Un-forecasted high winds quickly developed between 3rd-4th pitch and lead to a battle with furious spin drift. Abbed off after 4th pitch. Extremely cold (-18 + wind). Long descent back to Chamonix.
Pete Houghton 29 Jan, 2014 AltLd Slight cornea damage from windblown ice crystals, but a fun climb.
Slight cornea damage from windblown ice crystals, but a fun climb.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
joe.91 22 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Awesome climb, been wanting to do it for years and it didn't disappoint! Would of been quicker but had 3 teams ahead of us, I thought we were quick out of the gate but I was wrong!
with Reidy
Awesome climb, been wanting to do it for years and it didn't disappoint! Would of been quicker but had 3 teams ahead of us, I thought we were quick out of the gate but I was wrong!
with Reidy
Hidden 22 Sep, 2013 2nd
Ralfy 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Pete Morgan
with Pete Morgan
The Bad Cough 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
manxclare 14 Sep, 2013 2nd
with The Bad Cough, jon22
with The Bad Cough, jon22
John sealey 14 Sep, 2013 Lead
morpcat 12 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S First ice route and what a route it was!
First ice route and what a route it was!
wilkinscl 12 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Pretty good introduction to proper ice climbing.
with morpcat
Pretty good introduction to proper ice climbing.
with morpcat
mattfarr 11 Sep, 2013 2nd
with Dave BMG, Will
with Dave BMG, Will
j.buckley87 6 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
geoff.comley 2 Sep, 2013 Solo rpt Really nice to be alone on a route not involved with climbing with a partner. How anti social is that. Lovely route, perfect ice if stepped out a you'd expect.
Really nice to be alone on a route not involved with climbing with a partner. How anti social is that. Lovely route, perfect ice if stepped out a you'd expect.
Just Will ?Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
dutybooty 20 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Met some really cool Belgians, and some lads on their first alpine climb on the way down. Bit chilly with approx 40kph winds.
with Lee
Awesome route. Met some really cool Belgians, and some lads on their first alpine climb on the way down. Bit chilly with approx 40kph winds.
with Lee
Dan0Me 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Chris Hill
with Chris Hill
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
monkeyme2 16 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with Ben J, Brannock
with Ben J, Brannock
Brannock 13 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Led 1st four pitches, nice ice.
Led 1st four pitches, nice ice.
DaveThexton 12 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Tim Bevan 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Slightly late up but still managed to make it down. First steep ice climb, nice route. Easy to protect with ice screws and cams.
Slightly late up but still managed to make it down. First steep ice climb, nice route. Easy to protect with ice screws and cams.
euanryan 11 Aug, 2013 -
with Willis
with Willis
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
leeoftroy ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
friendzone1234 31 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S I did lead a couple of pitches (p6, p8) but the majority was Matthew reynolds, inc the crux pitches, I seconded more than I lead
with matthew reynolds
I did lead a couple of pitches (p6, p8) but the majority was Matthew reynolds, inc the crux pitches, I seconded more than I lead
with matthew reynolds
Bruce S 30 Jul, 2013 2nd dnf
Hidden 30 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jezzer 23 Jul, 2013 2nd With guide, from 6.30 cable car. Surprising amount of ice for a warm July morning. If continuing to Tacul summit, beware of seracs over the descent route
With guide, from 6.30 cable car. Surprising amount of ice for a warm July morning. If continuing to Tacul summit, beware of seracs over the descent route
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
joermann 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Peter Holder 11 Jul, 2013 - Moved together
with Josh Legg, Lew13
Moved together
with Josh Legg, Lew13
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 Solo
Stuart Johnston 7 Jul, 2013 Lead A surprisingly good route! Lead all pitches. Would be sustained if it wasn't stepped out!
with Sadie Renwick
A surprisingly good route! Lead all pitches. Would be sustained if it wasn't stepped out!
with Sadie Renwick
Keith Lambley 2 Jul, 2013 -
with Kate R
with Kate R
Mr Fuller 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Stepped out and in excellent condition. Led P4 (first of the steeper pitches). Abbed after P5.
with Paul Gibbison, riven
Stepped out and in excellent condition. Led P4 (first of the steeper pitches). Abbed after P5.
with Paul Gibbison, riven
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 2nd
Claire Molloy ?Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Naomi Havercroft ?Jul, 2013 2nd
with Jonathan Gumery, Matthew Forshaw
with Jonathan Gumery, Matthew Forshaw
Hidden 27 Jun, 2013 Lead
Gumery 27 Jun, 2013 -
with Naomi, Forshaw
with Naomi, Forshaw
zcsharp 26 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Dave, Mark
with Dave, Mark
masmith 26 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Dave Stocks, zcsharp
with Dave Stocks, zcsharp
Mike Hood 21 Jun, 2013 AltLd
davebrox 17 Jun, 2013 AltLd β
with Dan
with Dan
paulmck 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Ali D ?Jun, 2013 AltLd
leowestland ?Jun, 2013 -
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 -
Hidden 27 May, 2013 Solo rpt
Hidden 21 May, 2013 AltLd rpt
joelevanschamonix 15 May, 2013 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/05/22/chere-couloir-mont-blanc-du-tacul-22052013/
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/05/22/chere-couloir-mont-blanc-du-tacul-22052013/
nvalentine760 10 May, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 10 May, 2013 AltLd
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2013 AltLd rpt
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
Hidden 22 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 22 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
bandersnatch ?Oct, 2012 AltLd
BorisVBlade 23 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Guillaume Billardon
with Guillaume Billardon
Cardi 21 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2 & 4
with Mike Wild
Led P2 & 4
with Mike Wild
Graeme Barr 21 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Neil
with Neil
Ashley Hold ?Sep, 2012 2nd
with torquil
with torquil
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 Lead
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
jameslam 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
with Charlie Thorneycroft
ray.allwood 19 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S With Mark Cordingley. Abseiled after fifth pitch.
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
With Mark Cordingley. Abseiled after fifth pitch.
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Jay C 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with James M
with James M
jimmatthews 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Stepped out
with Jay Conlon
Stepped out
with Jay Conlon
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!
with Scott Kirkhope
Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!
with Scott Kirkhope
Jack.H.92 7 Jul, 2012 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 -
AdamH 27 Jun, 2012 - Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad
Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad
Hidden 27 Jun, 2012 2nd dnf
Hidden 7 Jun, 2012 2nd
DrJon 5 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
with Andy O
with Andy O
Hidden 17 May, 2012 AltLd RP
Hidden 9 Apr, 2012 -
Rick Ashton 8 Apr, 2012 Lead Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm
with Bruno Schull
Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm
with Bruno Schull
alpinestar_no1 7 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.
with Sune Buur
Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.
with Sune Buur
Ly-Cilph 5 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.
with Piet W
Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.
with Piet W
Hidden 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd
LucaC 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.
with HarryB
Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.
with HarryB
HarryB 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd rpt Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.
with LucaC
Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.
with LucaC
LucaC 26 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.
with HarryB
Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.
with HarryB
HarryB 26 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
rosieposey14 ??, 2012 -
keith leonard ??, 2012 -
S Lynch 30 Oct, 2011 Solo rpt
PHILD 9 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S Climbed with Alex. Nice weather, easy route as quite stepped out. All in all, a good day!
with AMarchant, Stuie Air, Ally Hurst
Climbed with Alex. Nice weather, easy route as quite stepped out. All in all, a good day!
with AMarchant, Stuie Air, Ally Hurst
Hidden 9 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with danJBA
with danJBA
highclimber 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
danJBA 8 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
roberto18 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd
with Tom Nickols
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
MikeLell 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.
with Lee Harrison
Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.
with Lee Harrison
Big Lee 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.
Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.
Adam Booth 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S 1hr 40 to top of difficulties... Awesome climb!
with gowla
1hr 40 to top of difficulties... Awesome climb!
with gowla
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
gowla 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
with adam booth
geoff.comley 26 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S 3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!
3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!
The Mountain Goat 18 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.
Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.
Somerset swede basher 18 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Tracked out.
with Jon Miles
Tracked out.
with Jon Miles
Hidden 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
np134 2 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with C. Price
with C. Price
benclimbing ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ross Davidson 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Camdenelectric 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 Solo
twright180 16 Jul, 2011 -
with John McCune
with John McCune
Petarghh 16 Jul, 2011 Lead Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham
Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 2nd
knicos 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Ulgrid 5 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
RKernan 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.
Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.
gilmour_789 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with RKernan
with RKernan
Jack Loftus 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
ChrisDavis ?Jul, 2011 -
tskelhon ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with chris davis
with chris davis
tsl42 ?Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Nice
Nice
climbinggasman ?Jul, 2011 2nd Completed three out of four pitches
Completed three out of four pitches
ernieb182 ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lewis Gray
with Lewis Gray
d_meacher ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Edvin Mellergard
with Edvin Mellergard
Hidden 30 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
GraMc 24 Jun, 2011 Solo O/S first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line
first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line
Hidden 24 Jun, 2011 Solo
goatee 16 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Kevin Ring
with Kevin Ring
Jack Loftus 12 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 12 Jun, 2011 AltLd Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph ! otherwise nice route, stepped out.
Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph ! otherwise nice route, stepped out.
KatieG ?Jun, 2011 2nd
QuentinSu ?Jun, 2011 -
jacksonak47 ?Jun, 2011 2nd
wi11 25 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 25 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
with will hardy
with will hardy
John Carney ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
with David Linton
with David Linton
dswansonlow 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with sarp
with sarp
sarpedon 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.
with dougie swanson-low
Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.
with dougie swanson-low
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead
mcaterina ?Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 2nd
Si 29 Mar, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 25 Feb, 2011 Lead
SteveM 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd dnf Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?
Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?
Kris 12 Feb, 2011 Lead rpt Fun fun fun! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=41987&id=142713869117889
Fun fun fun! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=41987&id=142713869117889
Hidden 19 Jan, 2011 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??, 2011 -
James Smith 20 Oct, 2010 Solo dnf ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.
ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.
masa-alpin 18 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.
with Max C
Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.
with Max C
Ben Briggs 29 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 21 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Andy Kuszyk 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Alex Holt
with Alex Holt
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.
with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton
After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.
with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton
chris m fisher 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Very Scottish!
with Graham
Very Scottish!
with Graham
carl_123 6 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
davefount ?Aug, 2010 AltLd good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections
good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections
yellow ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Glyn 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Julli 13 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence
with Noora S.
Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence
with Noora S.
Rob N 6 Jul, 2010 AltLd first ice lead!
first ice lead!
Hidden 1 Jul, 2010 Lead
steve_hoey 1 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.
with Davide
Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.
with Davide
Hidden 1 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
mathquirk ?Jul, 2010 Lead
with Petter Zachrisson
with Petter Zachrisson
liamo333 ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?Jul, 2010 -
with Richard Scott
with Richard Scott
CarolineH 27 Jun, 2010 -
Bristoldave 27 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
mark_chal 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
oldgrey ?Jun, 2010 - Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.
with Virgil Scott
Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.
with Virgil Scott
Hardonicus 12 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.
with Tom Woods
Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.
with Tom Woods
Tom Livingstone ?Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Charlie Evans 22 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ben
with Ben
Greg Boswell 18 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Damien
with Damien
wee hippy 11 Jan, 2010 Solo skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day
skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day
stuart34 11 Jan, 2010 2nd
with James Monypenny
with James Monypenny
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
Dave Searle ??, 2010 -
Andy Graham ??, 2010 2nd O/S
with Tom Pearson
with Tom Pearson
chrislikesstowford 16 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils. Awesome day though.
Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils. Awesome day though.
roryifinlay 1 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.
with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.
with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
Christina ?Sep, 2009 2nd We didn't do the last pitch
We didn't do the last pitch
tjmillen 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with simon hall
with simon hall
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Calder 1 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Le Chef
with Le Chef
joese7en ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Timo Austino 15 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!
with Ali
How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!
with Ali
hamish2016 22 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.
with Billy Grant
Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.
with Billy Grant
Hidden ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 28 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
Tobias at Home 28 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S only did the first 5 pitches
with featuresforfeet
only did the first 5 pitches
with featuresforfeet
Hidden ?Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 3 Jan, 2009 AltLd
with Ewan
with Ewan
milkyjoe 9 Nov, 2008 2nd Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.
with kenton cool, ewan
Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.
with kenton cool, ewan
alexanderred 16 Sep, 2008 AltLd rpt
with Gareth Chapman
with Gareth Chapman
sean72 2 Sep, 2008 2nd
with Kenton Cool, Chadrads
with Kenton Cool, Chadrads
chadrads 2 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with kenton cool
with kenton cool
neil.loydon ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !
with Jamie Foxley
Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !
with Jamie Foxley
Pete Graham ?Sep, 2008 AltLd
with nofx
with nofx
Karl Wooffindin 28 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.
with Robin
Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.
with Robin
Neil Mackenzie 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on
Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on
andymoin 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arêtes brought us to the summit.
Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arêtes brought us to the summit.
felixthelion 10 Aug, 2008 - 2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended
2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended
tommytuffa 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with ollie b, Gelix
with ollie b, Gelix
Hidden 1 Aug, 2008 AltLd
markv21 ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Neil D ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
James Gordon ?Aug, 2008 -
HIGHTOWER 31 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Gordie (Leuchars), timmy-ts
with Gordie (Leuchars), timmy-ts
gordon henderson 31 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with MRT
with MRT
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 2nd rpt
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
jam_rich ?Jul, 2008 -
robertporter ?Jul, 2008 Lead
Hidden 30 Jun, 2008 2nd
david0811 30 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reid
with Mark Reid
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Solo
SWalls ?Jun, 2008 AltLd
with plummet
with plummet
Brown 19 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hobbs
with Andy Hobbs
mrtom 16 Feb, 2008 AltLd
with lyneux
with lyneux
lyneux 16 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson
with mrtom
Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson
with mrtom
Hidden 14 Feb, 2008 2nd
georgeevans88 14 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Feb, 2008 AltLd
mike.moss ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Tom Gadsden, Kane Chandler
with Tom Gadsden, Kane Chandler
Tom Gadsden ?Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
nofx ??, 2008 -
Mark Stevenson 26 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Scott MacKenzie
with Scott MacKenzie
Hidden 1 Sep, 2007 2nd
Rob84 23 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Rob84 23 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Mihkel 13 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S 5 long pitches to top of triangle. Ice then fun mixed at top. Descent by traversing onto Tacul Ordinary Route: at one point had to down climb a short serac (which Tucker fell from, landing on his back 5m below, he was OK). ~ 3.5 hrs.
with Gareth Tucker
5 long pitches to top of triangle. Ice then fun mixed at top. Descent by traversing onto Tacul Ordinary Route: at one point had to down climb a short serac (which Tucker fell from, landing on his back 5m below, he was OK). ~ 3.5 hrs.
with Gareth Tucker
SamStrong ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
Dinger 13 Jul, 2007 2nd rpt
with Martin Heaton
with Martin Heaton
Hidden 12 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
hlegge 10 Jul, 2007 Lead
tcn_2002 10 Jul, 2007 2nd
with hlegge
with hlegge
DermotShiels 5 Jul, 2007 -
DaveLeonard ?Jul, 2007 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
kevburr 18 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
with Roger Payne
David Horwood 18 Apr, 2007 -
Chris Beck ?Feb, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jan, 2007 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Ben Wolstenholme ??, 2007 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Bristoldave ??, 2007 AltLd
with long
with long
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2006 AltLd
dancurrie ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with George Ward
with George Ward
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes ?Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
andy jennings ?Jul, 2006 2nd dnf i hate ice climbing
i hate ice climbing
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2006 2nd
nickdonohue ?May, 2006 Lead
Brian Birtle 2 Feb, 2006 AltLd Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.
with Patagonian Thomas
Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.
with Patagonian Thomas
Brian Birtle 9 Jan, 2006 2nd
with Jon
with Jon
zero six ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 12 Nov, 2005 AltLd First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)
with Eric Frankenmolen
First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)
with Eric Frankenmolen
feilx ?Sep, 2005 AltLd
dannyboy83 ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ?Jul, 2005 AltLd
andyinglis ?Jul, 2005 AltLd Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.
with neil adams
Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.
with neil adams
gwilym ?Jul, 2005 Lead
with Michael Brownjohn
with Michael Brownjohn
Simon K 30 Apr, 2005 2nd
with AB
with AB
Robbie H 11 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)
with Carless
It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)
with Carless
Carless 11 Mar, 2005 AltLd
edek_w ?Mar, 2005 -
Neil Adams ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
feilx ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Jerry67 ?Jul, 2004 -
David Horwood 27 Jun, 2003 -
Hidden 28 May, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Oct, 2002 AltLd
Gudge ?Sep, 2002 AltLd O/S Ice pitches & Mt Blanc du Tacul.
with gwh
Ice pitches & Mt Blanc du Tacul.
with gwh
plain kitten ?Jul, 2002 AltLd GMcE
GMcE
1202alarm ?Mar, 2002 -
brockers ??, 2002 -
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
Hidden 12 Sep, 2001 2nd
liz j ?Sep, 2001 2nd
with neil brodie
with neil brodie
ian bryant 12 Jun, 2001 2nd
with walter
with walter
prcleary ??, 2000 -
stokesrees 6 Feb, 1999 Lead falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again
with Gus Melbourne
falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again
with Gus Melbourne
AB1965 9 Jun, 1998 Lead
andy_pemberton ?Feb, 1997 AltLd First (and only!) winter alpine route. Ignoring the bad forecast we headed up and had the route to ourselves - fantastic! As we later camped below the Cosmiques arete the storm hit and our tents got gradually burried in snow! The epic retreat in zero visability back to the cable car was formative!
with Jon Scorer
First (and only!) winter alpine route. Ignoring the bad forecast we headed up and had the route to ourselves - fantastic! As we later camped below the Cosmiques arete the storm hit and our tents got gradually burried in snow! The epic retreat in zero visability back to the cable car was formative!
with Jon Scorer
Michael ?Aug, 1996 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
Grezza ?Apr, 1996 Lead
with Paul E
with Paul E
stokesrees ??, 1996 Solo
Hidden 15 Apr, 1995 AltLd dnf
Hidden 15 Apr, 1995 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ?Apr, 1995 -
with Paul Tucker
with Paul Tucker
crossleysm 14 Mar, 1995 AltLd With Neil
With Neil
neilmclean ??, 1995 - Various partners over various seasons. First time with Simon.
Various partners over various seasons. First time with Simon.
alkira 22 Jun, 1994 -
with kerry atkey
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 AltLd
mark-abz 20 Mar, 1994 AltLd
with Bill S
with Bill S
alpinist63 ??, 1994 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 1993 AltLd
with Paul Benstead
with Paul Benstead
CMacD ?Jul, 1993 -
frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Stone
with Stone
adamade ?Jul, 1990 2nd O/S
with Chris Ayres
with Chris Ayres
maximjones ?Jun, 1989 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
Hidden ?Oct, 1985 -
Hidden ?Feb, 1983 -
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Voting
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High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 47
High 5
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Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set