Rockfax Description
II, 155m, 3 hours. The classic of the Triangle and one of the busiest routes in Chamonix, this route deserves its good reputation but can be tricky to find quiet. A night in the comfortable Refuge des Cosmiques may be worth the money to ensure some peace! The route varies greatly from month to month but should climbable just about every day of the year, weather permitting. The route is easily visible from the Refuge des Cosmiques and the top half is visible from the campsites in Les Bossons! The pitches described here can be split by intermediate belays. Begin by climbing the lower snow slopes (45 degrees, possible serac danger) to reach a belay on the left.
1) 35m. The snow slope continues and then steepens slightly to 50 degrees leading to a bolt belay on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Step left and climb the gully above. This has sections of 70 degree ice and can be mixed in thin conditions. It leads to the foot of the crux pitch and a belay on a comfortable ledge on the right.
3) 4, 40m. The crux of the route - the ice kicks up to 85 degrees here. The pitch is often stepped out due to the amount of traffic it sees and it is well protected by ice screws and the occasional peg on the right wall.
4) 3+, 30m. Slightly less steep, at around 75 degrees, this short step of ice marks the end of the difficulties.
Descent - Either abseil down the route (be aware of people underneath you when abseiling) or continue up moderate snowy mixed ground to a junction with the Contamine-Mazeaud and then onto the summit of the Triangle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Couloir ice climb. Approach from Midi Station or Abri Simond Bivouac Hut in less than one hour. Cross bergshrund and then climb about 11 pitches to the top. Can descend from the normal route leading up Mt. Blanc du Tacul or if not too busy in the couloir, rappel the route to it's start (Most people abseil off after 5 pitches - fixed belays).

R. Chere and J. Tranchant 18/Aug/1973

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50.

machars 07/Oct AltLd
with Charley
DigitalSteak 07/Oct AltLd
chiverstom 25/Sep Lead dnf

Several parties on route and poor ice mean lots of falling debris. First pitch only

Hidden 25/Sep AltLd rpt
JackM92 21/Sep AltLd

Pretty mixed which made it better. Really straightforward, no way is this WI4. Good rock gear to the sides. Climbed 4 long pitches beyond initial icefield and abseiled off

Matt Amos 20/Sep AltLd O/S

First alpine ice route, which we had pretty much all to ourselves. A great day and in guidebook time, but I can see how it wouldn't be fun on a busy day.

Dexter JW 20/Sep AltLd O/S

Pretty Gnarly! First ice climb, apparently conditions weren't great but I can't really comment

David Horwood 19/Sep -
Theo Mossop 29/Jul 2nd β
with Hugh
Hugh Irving 29/Jul Lead O/S

Felt pretty Scottish, what with the poor conditions and weather. Basically the whole thing was falling down on us. Theo's first time up high, which he took in his stride.

BarneyLoosemore 30/Jun AltLd O/S

Excellent day, lots of fresh powder which made the bergshrund passable. Very cold for June. We were the only ones anywhere near the Tacul (apart from a guided group who arrived about half an hour after us on the same route) which made things very atmospheric.

with WGEvans
WGEvans 30/Jun AltLd
Michael Morrell 08/Jun AltLd

Lead crux, pretty wild with lots of spin drift!

Munkynutz 08/Jun AltLd dnf

Got caught behind some very slow groups, lot of loose ice coming down. Got cold, got hit with a large block and cracked my helmet, got spooked so bailed a base of crux pitch. Getting the first lift is important for this route!

Txitxar 22/May Lead
CRead 11/Apr AltLd O/S

Got stuck behind an american team who were hacking everything they could out of the route. Death trap. Not fun.

tom_drysdale 11/Apr AltLd O/S

Good introduction to ice climbing but stepped all the way. Led p2, Connor led p3. The team ahead were slow and kept throwing large chunks of ice down, one of which caught me in the face. Ended up abseiling after p3 to get back to the lift in time. Not a bad day but now out of money so leaving chamonix for the val di mello

luckyjim 27/Feb AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden ?/Feb Lead O/S
robertgrew 23/Jan Lead
janegallwey 20/Jan Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2017 -
Hidden 30/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
sam_cash 07/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/16 AltLd
steve7734 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Nice route! Led the crux pitch

George.D 10/Sep/16 2nd
Freshprintce 04/Sep/16 AltLd
JoeCoxson 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Route of the trip. Three teams on the route, so not disastrously busy, and we abseiled so no rushing. Lead P1,3,4 & 5. Loved every minute of it.

alan1234 22/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Richard Willis, Josh Pitman
j.anstee 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

With Guide but Alt Lead skills Trg.

AndyT1151 02/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Aislinn_sun ?/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/16 AltLd
Andre Clarke 22/Jul/16 -
with Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
cliffy 09/Jul/16 AltLd
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim ?/Jul/16 -
with Murilo
alooker ?/Jul/16 AltLd
bencoope ?/Jul/16 AltLd
markflanagan 26/Jun/16 AltLd

First lift and first on the route! Super climbing and loads of gear. Ab off after pitch 5. Would be nice to finish and summit the tacul but conditions were not good on the normal route.

cwildblood 24/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Doug miller 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Stayed in the Bivvy near Cosmiques and was up at 2am and were the first on the route. Had the entire Col de Midi to ourselves for several hours which was magical. Didn't see anyone else till we had started to Ab off and met a couple parties below us.

harry_lewis 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

good ice, led first and third ice sections and moved together on snowy bits

with Matt Harmon
Matt Harmon 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

led second ice section (crux), moved together on all other bits, continued above the ice for about 100m before deciding to abseil back down

Liam Watson 14/Jun/16 AltLd
with DavidMcK, Martini
scorpia97 13/Apr/16 AltLd

Approached in shin to knee deep snow, simul climbed the first mixed pitch. Fairly lean/dry and then pitched the next. Abbed off before the last (proper) pitch into a full on blizzard and only just made the last service lift down.

Kirill 25/Mar/16 AltLd
mike.moss 25/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/16 Lead rpt
frejashannon 22/Mar/16 2nd O/S
monsteratt ?/Jan/16 AltLd

Very windy day. Not much snow in Goulotte Allemande so did this instead. Skied the valley blanche afterwards all the way to Chamonix (that was hard work).

with Rich B
Jack Geldard ??/2016 -
Josh Wade ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Richard Kendrick ??/2016 -
with Stanley
MichaelGallimore 30/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

My first proper ice route. Pretty busy but steady climbing. A rock or some ice hit me in the face on lead and my nose bled, got some good photos. I'll think twice before climbing this route again- objective danger was pretty high. In summer I've seen head torches on this route even in the middle of the night, so not sure if there's ever a quiet time to climb it. Perhaps a bivvy overnight in winter with an early start would be best.

with Rob, JenShelley
JendeHoxar 30/Dec/15 2nd

First ice climb (other than indoors in Manchester!). Lots of people on the route, going at different speeds, and some of them rappelling down whilst others were going up definitely added to the challenge! Abbed down after the steep ice pitches.

with Mike, Rob
DigitalSteak 28/Dec/15 AltLd
machars 28/Dec/15 AltLd
with Hannah W, Charley
machars 23/Dec/15 AltLd
with Daniel
Hidden 26/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 24/Oct/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Oct/15 AltLd rpt
alpinestar_no1 08/Oct/15 AltLd rpt

Just the steep pitches after some atempts on german gully/Les Temps est Assassin

with Jakob Fisker
DaveThexton 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Jenn_Stretton 27/Sep/15 2nd
machars 20/Sep/15 AltLd
with Charley
DigitalSteak 20/Sep/15 AltLd
adamre12 08/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

First proper ice lead. Was very busy, and was hit by a lot of falling ice, one even cracked my helmet! Great route with great ice.

heghedush 06/Sep/15 2nd
TBromley 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
gallonj 24/Aug/15 -
AshBash 05/Jul/15 -

First ice route, things went wrong on first pitch got scared and my mate led the rest aha!

CMoore 28/Jun/15 AltLd

Great but very busy.

tunnah 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
davkeo 13/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

Blue sky day and great fun. Crusty sugary snow on route.

niallsash 13/Jun/15 AltLd
with kdo
kdo 13/Jun/15 AltLd

Dave and Niall did the hard stuff, first climb of this type for me but I loved it...except for Niall whinging about cold hands and other climbers dropping belay plates and gloves on us. Had a digestion problem on the walk out and a kneeling problem on the midi arete!

scarmichael 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent first alpine route in a quality setting, 2x 60m ropes very useful for quick descent

MJLangley 11/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/15 -
Euan Todd 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Felt pretty shagged from a few days on the go, but led the upper steep pitch - had to take it slow and steady, lots of careful resting. Great fun route though, so much ice, so little commitment!

with Adz
Hugh Simons 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead all the steep pitches. Ice was in good nick. Cloudy and cool day meant it felt pretty Scottish apart from a lack of wind! Great climbing.

with Ali
steveforgrieve 09/Jun/15 2nd

Alpine week with guide Andy Owen and Sue Jeffrey

sj87 09/Jun/15 2nd
cmars89 15/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Abbed off after the crux, my hands were gone, knackered.

with Ryan Weber
smithaldo 19/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Ridiculously easy and stepped out. Have seen WI4 banded about as a grade, more like WI2+.

with Clegg
Mr-Cowdrey 10/Mar/15 2nd dnf

Party on every pitch, made it to second belay which we were sharing and so decided to bail as ice was falling everywhere and one chap was abseiling down any way.

with Dane Burns
Hidden 09/Mar/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Feb/15 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
ndraper1 05/Oct/14 -

great conditions compared to last time!

robgixer 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Alpenglow 15/Sep/14 2nd

Great route, first proper steep Ice but found easier than I was expecting as it was quite stepped out.

with Tom L
Hidden 14/Sep/14 -
joe_lancs 12/Sep/14 AltLd
surf1nal-kern0w 12/Sep/14 -
Hidden 12/Sep/14 AltLd
Katie S 11/Sep/14 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

katie led 1 and 2 and i linked 3 and 4. super scary!

with katie
hoppojoe7 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S

good protection, good ice, very trodden.

MrRiley 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

First on route after staying at the Cosmiques, superb conditions, abbed after ice pitches, cracking route!

with Richard Hines
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Hidden 07/Sep/14 -
planetmarshall 06/Sep/14 Lead

Utterly fantastic condition. First on the route and didn't see another party all day. Ascended to the summit and back down the standard route.

Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/14 -
7toes 02/Sep/14 -
with DamianR
alexm198 ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

First team on the route having bivvied at the Col du Midi. Pretty stepped out so steady going. Gorgeous plastic ice all the way up, rapped off after the difficulties (4 pitches). Led P1,3

with Matt Harle, James Thompson
Hidden ?/Sep/14 -
davkeo ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Never hard and very enjoyable. Bivied in peroux hut and first on route at 5.30am.

davkeo ?/Sep/14 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Matt Harle ?/Sep/14 AltLd
leeoftroy ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Couldn't resist doing it again as Ed hadn't before. Took alt route to right at top. Nice mixed section. With Ed.

Webster ?/Sep/14 Solo

first alpine solo, and what a route! amazing quality ice all the way and good mixed climbing to the top of the triangle

Callum Smith 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Superb, as good as ice gets. Little to no hooking and bomber screws! Stayed in bivi hut by cosmiques and were second on route, rapping was tricky due to traffic. 2 hours berg to abseils. Lead all pitches.

Tom Campbell 26/Aug/14 -

stepped out, rapped after the good pitches, very busy

Goodstuff 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

First high-altitude vertical ice climb. Crux headwall. Very busy. Awesome!

with Dave Sawyer
Timothy Miller 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
McPhail92 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
David Staples 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd
Guss1 13/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Adamski1986 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Richard Gage
Hidden 08/Aug/14 AltLd
MartF 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Long day. Completed route and walked down from the Tacul, didn't go to the summit. Caught 2nd lift in the morning, back to the lift by 6:45pm. Lift then delayed 1 hour by thunderstorm cuitting the electric, spent an hour sat in the Plan station regailing tourists with tales of sleeping on the toilet floor...

with Stu Spencer
matty123 01/Aug/14 2nd
Paul Collins ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Neil Byrne
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 23/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Crux pitch has very rotten ice, much more exciting..

BoulderyDave 16/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/14 -
Craig Holden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

can see why it is so popular. Great ice though top pitch rather stepped out. Abd off at end of ice pitches.

with Alex Toomey
alex toomey 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
JakeWShaw 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead until first 80+ deg section. Micki lead two steepest pitches. Ace conditions and first on the route, wouldn't recommend doing if you weren't in the first 2 or 3 parties but amazing if you are. Lots of ice was getting kicked down whilst we abbed.

with Micky
MSchobitz 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S

First on route, great ice, even if it was covered in powder from the days before. Absolutely fantastic day. Abbed off after the last ice step.

with jake
Nemmie ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd
HosteDenis ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk ?/Jul/14 Lead
with Micheal Haywood, Danny Barden
Ross L 26/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Helliker
Hidden 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Gibbo 26/Jun/14 AltLd
with Sash Coombes
johnrich 16/Jun/14 2nd
johnmctighe 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Really good ice climbing. Was a bit easy as the ice was very featured with big bucket steps for the feet. Plenty of fixed and normal rock pro available and fixed belays. A couple of ice screws is ample.

with Andy Owen
DigitalSteak 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great route, one other party on it. Yes it is stepped out but great climbing nonetheless.

simon_D 07/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good ice route with steep sections, but very stepped out! probably the most climbed ice route from the midi

with Edvin
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
niallsash ?/Jun/14 Lead
Piglet69 ?/Jun/14 -
Rob Royle 31/May/14 2nd

Great days climbing in lovely weather! Not too many other groups on the route. I lead the first 2 pitches and then Seb, our guide, lead the next 3. Abseiled back down after 5 pitches to make the last lift down from the Midi.

with Mountain Guide, Steph
david_brookes 14/Apr/14 AltLd
Ulgrid 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Ascent past the tope of ther triangle - lots of chossy rocks so descent down the normal route of the Tacul.

with Dave
Grant Fulton ?/Apr/14 Lead
Gumery ?/Apr/14 2nd
with Grant
Hidden 31/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/14 AltLd
chapmand 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Rory Brown
waiting for snow ?/Feb/14 AltLd
ndraper1 29/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Bullet ice on approach slopes. Good neve on crux pitches. Un-forecasted high winds quickly developed between 3rd-4th pitch and lead to a battle with furious spin drift. Abbed off after 4th pitch. Extremely cold (-18 + wind). Long descent back to Chamonix.

Pete Houghton 29/Jan/14 AltLd

Slight cornea damage from windblown ice crystals, but a fun climb.

with ndraper
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
joe.91 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, been wanting to do it for years and it didn't disappoint! Would of been quicker but had 3 teams ahead of us, I thought we were quick out of the gate but I was wrong!

Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
manxclare 14/Sep/13 2nd
with paul cubbins, jon22
John sealey 14/Sep/13 Lead
morpcat 12/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

First ice route and what a route it was!

wilkinscl 12/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Pretty good introduction to proper ice climbing.

mattfarr 11/Sep/13 2nd
with Dave BMG, Will
j.buckley87 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
geoff.comley 02/Sep/13 Solo rpt

Really nice to be alone on a route not involved with climbing with a partner. How anti social is that. Lovely route, perfect ice if stepped out a you'd expect.

Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
dutybooty 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Met some really cool Belgians, and some lads on their first alpine climb on the way down. Bit chilly with approx 40kph winds.

with Lee
Dan0Me 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Chris Hill
MPSBunny 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

John got all of the good pitches due to us not counting the approach slopes as a pitch whilst I got the final poor snow slope. Secretly quite glad about this as I was feeling pretty tired out from the previous days. Abseiled off to avoid the crevassed descent from the Tacul!

Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Brannock 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led 1st four pitches, nice ice.

DaveThexton 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tim Bevan 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Slightly late up but still managed to make it down. First steep ice climb, nice route. Easy to protect with ice screws and cams.

euanryan 11/Aug/13 -
with Willis
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
scottie390 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ethan Clarke
leeoftroy ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
friendzone1234 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I did lead a couple of pitches (p6, p8) but the majority was Matthew reynolds, inc the crux pitches, I seconded more than I lead

with matthew reynolds
Bruce S 30/Jul/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 30/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Jezzer 23/Jul/13 2nd

With guide, from 6.30 cable car. Surprising amount of ice for a warm July morning. If continuing to Tacul summit, beware of seracs over the descent route

Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
joermann 11/Jul/13 AltLd
Peter Holder 11/Jul/13 -

Moved together

with Josh Legg, lewis fraser
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Solo
Stuart Johnston 07/Jul/13 Lead

A surprisingly good route! Lead all pitches. Would be sustained if it wasn't stepped out!

with Sadie Renwick
Keith Lambley 02/Jul/13 -
with Kate R
Mr Fuller 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Stepped out and in excellent condition. Led P4 (first of the steeper pitches). Abbed after P5.

with Paul Gibbison, Joe Barker
Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Claire Molloy ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/13 Lead
Gumery 27/Jun/13 -
with Naomi, Forshaw
zcsharp 26/Jun/13 2nd
with Dave, Mark
masmith 26/Jun/13 2nd
with Dave Stocks, Jamie Roberts
Mike Hood 21/Jun/13 AltLd
with jordan
davebrox 17/Jun/13 AltLd β
with Dan
paulmck 04/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Ali D ?/Jun/13 AltLd
leowestland ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 27/May/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd rpt
joelevanschamonix 15/May/13 AltLd β


nvalentine760 10/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 10/May/13 AltLd
James Thacker ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 AltLd rpt
with James Thomas
Hidden 22/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 22/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden ?/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
bandersnatch ?/Oct/12 AltLd
BorisVBlade 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Guillaume Billardon
Cardi 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4

with Mike Wild
machars 21/Sep/12 AltLd
with Neil
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
jameslam 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
ray.allwood 19/Jul/12 2nd O/S

With Mark Cordingley. Abseiled after fifth pitch.

with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Jay C 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with James M
jimmatthews 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Stepped out

with Jay Conlon
Hidden 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Ross
Ken Applegate 08/Jul/12 AltLd

Busy to start with, but two teams abseiled after the first pitch, leaving only us and one other to enjoy climbing all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Highly recommended!

with Scott Kirkhope
Jack.H.92 07/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
AdamH 27/Jun/12 -

Lots of ice fall for the whole climb, bailed on the last pitch when it got too bad

Hidden 27/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/12 2nd
DrJon 05/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Andy O
Hidden 17/May/12 AltLd RP
guy757 09/Apr/12 -
Rick Ashton 08/Apr/12 Lead

Started the climb at 5.45pm. Simul climbed first two pitches. Then pitched the next 3. Very easy climbing in a stunning setting, with no one to be seen or heard. Finished last pitch as sun was setting. Crossed the valley Blanche in knee to waist deep snow and arrived at our tent at 10pm

with Bruno Schull
alpinestar_no1 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Very chopped and easy, but a nice day out in the sun, and we where the only ones on it! Sadly our only climb on this trip.

with Sune Buur
Ly-Cilph 05/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Sublime abseil descent at sunset to the sound of churchbells from the Chamonix valley.

with Piet W
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd
LJC 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Our route for today wasn't in so we came back and lead the alternate pitches. Odd pitches this time, and much more fun once acclimatised.

with Harry
HarryB 29/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Went to do 1 of the gullies to the right but they both looked a bit thin so we did this again.

with Luca
LJC 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Twice in three days. Lead even pitches first time.

with Harry
HarryB 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Luca
rosieposey14 ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Solo rpt
PHILD 09/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Climbed with Alex. Nice weather, easy route as quite stepped out. All in all, a good day!

with AMarchant, Stuie Air, Ally Hurst
Hidden 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 08/Sep/11 AltLd
highclimber 08/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
danJBA 08/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
roberto18 31/Aug/11 AltLd
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 30/Aug/11 -
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MikeLell 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Great route. Bergschrund easy to cross and route was quite stepped out in the steep sections. Steepest route I've climbed in the Alps so far.

with Lee Harrison
Big Lee 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Good conditions although main pitches stepped out. Ab'ed off from the top of the couloir. Needed about 10 abs due to only having a single rope.

Adam Booth 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

1hr 40 to top of difficulties... Awesome climb!

Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
gowla 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
geoff.comley 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S

3 stars, only ones on it after a really cold start and 0 vis. Ice in good condition, slightly brittle. Full on winter conditions at the start, snowing + cold wind. Nice view of Aiguille Du Midi at the top though!

The Mountain Goat 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead moving together first three pitches. Dom lead pitches 4 and 5. Very stepped out this late in the season.

Somerset swede basher 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Tracked out.

with Jon Miles
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
np134 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with C. Price
benclimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Camdenelectric 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Clay C 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Started the route in the early afternoon, and so had it to ourselves. Very stepped out at the moment.

with Caspian
Hidden 25/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/11 Solo
twright180 16/Jul/11 -
with John McCune
Petarghh 16/Jul/11 Lead

Perfect morning route to round off 8 weeks in Cham

Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
knicos 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Ulgrid 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ross
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
RKernan 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Finished via mixed ground at the top and walked off. Easier than expected due to traffic.

Jack Loftus 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
tskelhon ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with chris davis
tsl42 ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S


climbinggasman ?/Jul/11 2nd

Completed three out of four pitches

ernieb182 ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Lewis Gray
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Edvin Mellergard
Hidden 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
GraMc 24/Jun/11 Solo O/S

first route of the season 30 mins to the top, the tacul slope looked sketchy as fuck for avvys so abbed the line

Hidden 24/Jun/11 Solo
goatee 16/Jun/11 2nd
with Kevin Ring
Jack Loftus 12/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 12/Jun/11 AltLd

Lots of Ice knocked down by some idiots abseiling at 100mph ! otherwise nice route, stepped out.

KatieG ?/Jun/11 2nd
QuentinSu ?/Jun/11 -
jacksonak47 ?/Jun/11 2nd
wi11 25/May/11 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 25/May/11 AltLd O/S
with will hardy
John Carney ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with David Linton
dswansonlow 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with sarp
sarpedon 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed the first 5 pitches of ice.

with dougie swanson-low
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
mcaterina ?/Apr/11 2nd
AdamCB ?/Apr/11 2nd

With Neil Brodie

Si 29/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Audrey Seguy 25/Feb/11 Lead

Did first four pitches then abseiled back down. Used snowshoes to get in- 50 minutes to get to base of climb from Midi station, but 2 hours to get back! For winter ascents skis are definitely the way forward.

SteveM 14/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Abseiled off after leading the first pitch only. A combination of not being acclimatised, late start, skinning for the first time and not being fit. Is that enough excuses for one pitch of snow & ice?

with Tobs
Kris 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Fun fun fun! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=41987&id=142713869117889

Hidden 19/Jan/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
James Smith 20/Oct/10 Solo dnf

ice wasnt great so chickened out at the crux and abbed off. great last climb of the seaon though.

masa-alpin 18/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Due to fresh snow from 2 days ago, we had to break the trail pretty much all the way from Midi station. Started cold with continuous assaults of spin-drift avalanches, but the ice condition in the upper part was superb, and the route felt so easy! Abseiled off after the crux ice pitches. A very quiet day, where we saw hardly any other climber.

with Max C
Ben Briggs 29/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Chris
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Andy Kuszyk 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex Holt
Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

After a week of snow, had to cut trail out+back, rather wintery day, couldnt always find the belays so used screws/pro.

with Lewis Grey, Ben Clayton
Hidden 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
carl_123 06/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
davefount ?/Aug/10 AltLd

good ice where it mattered but some very thin ice on the lower angle sections

yellow ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Glyn 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Julli 13/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Last pitch not climbed due to some unexpected occurrence

with Noora S.
Rob N 06/Jul/10 AltLd

first ice lead!

matus 01/Jul/10 Lead
with sasha
steve_hoey 01/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Great day, 4am start, summited Tacul, down in Cham for a beer by 1330.

with Davide
Hidden 01/Jul/10 2nd O/S
mathquirk ?/Jul/10 Lead
with Petter Zachrisson
liamo333 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?/Jul/10 -
with Richard Scott
CarolineH 27/Jun/10 -
with Dave
Bristoldave 27/Jun/10 Lead rpt
mark_chal 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/10 2nd O/S
oldgrey ?/Jun/10 -

Pretty steep ice in places, bolts on the side if you can find them, very popular route when in condition (4 parties including us at the time). Ice quality was very good. We camped on the Vallee Blanche so approach and return was nice and short.

with Virgil Scott
Hardonicus 12/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Steps like buckets hacked out all the way. Would be substantially harder on fresh ice.

with Tom Woods
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Charlie Evans 22/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Greg Boswell 18/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Damien
wee hippy 11/Jan/10 Solo

skinned up to the couloir which was fine......difficult upper mixed section due to bullet hard ice(and old picks)....waist deep powder down Mt Blanc du Tacul ordinary route.........good day

stuart34 11/Jan/10 2nd
with James Monypenny
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Dave Searle ??/2010 -
Andy Graham ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Tom Pearson
chrislikesstowford 16/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Stayed at Abri Simond Hut and had the whole of Valley Blanche to ourselves, so no queuing for the rout. Mark Scales lead and I seconded. Did not complete though as only had one rope so had to do 30m abseils. Awesome day though.

roryifinlay 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch, Dave led the second and fourth, Gary led the third and fifth. A serac at the southern edge of the triangle collapsed mid afternoon as we were on the route. The debris hit a rope of three coming down from Mont Blanc du Tacul and ended up just beyond the bergschrund at the start of the route. A broken femur was the worst injury thankfully.

with Gary Connor, Dave Chalmers
Christina ?/Sep/09 2nd

We didn't do the last pitch

tjmillen 05/Aug/09 AltLd
with simon hall
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Calder 01/Jul/09 2nd
with Le Chef
joese7en ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Timo Austino 15/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

How ice climbs should be with bolted belays - great climbing with a great mate!

with Ali
hamish2016 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Climbed this shortly before a snow bridge collapsed and I fell down a crevasse on our ski descent.

with Billy Grant
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 28/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Tobias at Home 28/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

only did the first 5 pitches

with featuresforfeet
Hidden ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 03/Jan/09 AltLd
with Ewan
milkyjoe 09/Nov/08 2nd

Led pitch 5, doing which v nearly cost us the last lift down... Great day out though.

with kenton cool, ewan
alexanderred 16/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
with Gareth Chapman
sean72 02/Sep/08 2nd
with Kenton Cool, Chadrads
chadrads 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with kenton cool
neil.loydon ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Finished the route, but did not continue to summit as there was the small matter of the tent to be packed, if we were to make last cable car down (as it happens, we made it by the skin of our teeth). With hindsight, that was short sighted and we should have pushed onto the summit, as we were well acclimatised and climbing well. A great day !

with Jamie Foxley
Pete Graham ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Karl Wooffindin 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Simu climbed the first 2 pitches, lead all the following ice and mixed pitches. Excellent route, got on it late in the day and found no crowds! Excellent.

with Robin
Neil Mackenzie 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Simu-climbed first 2 pitches, then 2 ace steep ice pitches before two mixed pitches and simu to the summit. Awesome route, and well glad we got up early to get first on

with Andy
andymoin 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Got up at 3am which I moaned about but worked out perfectly in the end, very surreal approaching alongside the masses going up tucal normal route. We were first on the route and simil climbed the first two pitches which had crappy not to steap nevi. Just as it started to get light we hit the steeper stuff which was thin to start forcing me to pitch up mixed ground to the right, two sublime pitches of perfect ice followed(Scottish V/IV) . A few more pitches on steep nevie, then simil climbing on easy mixed ground and tucals snow fields and arêtes brought us to the summit.

felixthelion 10/Aug/08 -

2nd outing on ice after the frendo. Simul climbed the first bit, Lead 4 piches. thoroughly recommended

tommytuffa 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with ollie b, Gelix
Hidden 01/Aug/08 AltLd
markv21 ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Neil D ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 31/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Gordie (Leuchars), Tim
gordon henderson 31/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with MRT
Hidden 16/Jul/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
jam_rich ?/Jul/08 -
robertporter ?/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/08 2nd
david0811 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reid
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Solo
SWalls ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Brown 19/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hobbs
lyneux 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Not so hard when there are steps already cut. Climbed as a three with Chris Glasson

Hidden 14/Feb/08 2nd
georgeevans88 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 14/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 10/Feb/08 AltLd
with Neil Carroll
mike.moss ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Tom Gadsden, Kane Chandler
Tom Gadsden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
nofx ??/2008 -
Mark Stevenson 26/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Scott MacKenzie
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
SamStrong ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Dinger 13/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Martin Heaton
Hidden 12/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
hlegge 10/Jul/07 Lead
tcn_2002 10/Jul/07 2nd
DaveLeonard ?/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
kevburr 18/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
David Horwood 18/Apr/07 -
Christian Beck ?/Feb/07 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jan/07 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ben Wolstenholme ??/2007 AltLd
Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd
with douglas
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Dhonny_Jaws ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
andy jennings ?/Jul/06 2nd dnf

i hate ice climbing

Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd
nickdonohue ?/May/06 Lead
Brian Birtle 02/Feb/06 AltLd

Great climb! Very crowded though... think carefully about whether you want to "do it French style" and continue climbing when there are parties above you... lots of big rocks and ice falling all around us made me more scared then on many other routes and in hindsight we should have probably bailed or waited until the crowds absailed off.

with Patagonian Thomas
Brian Birtle 09/Jan/06 2nd
with Jon
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 12/Nov/05 AltLd

First on route, huge amounts of spindthrift pouring down the couloir, condition was quite climbed-out, rapped off and lost one of my ice tools (later returned by a party that came up later and found it)

with Eric Frankenmolen
feilx ?/Sep/05 AltLd
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ?/Jul/05 AltLd
andyinglis ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Easy. Failed attempted Feb 05 due to very hard black ice.

with neil adams
gwilym ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Michael Brownjohn
Simon K 30/Apr/05 2nd
with AB
Robbie H 11/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

It's hard to snowboard in Nepal Extremes. More haste = less speed when descending from the 'phrique (next time put crampons on first)

edek_w ?/Mar/05 -
Neil Adams ??/2005 AltLd O/S
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jerry67 ?/Jul/04 -
David Horwood 27/Jun/03 -
Hidden 28/May/03 AltLd O/S
csalvage ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Dr Fran
Hidden ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/02 AltLd
Gudge ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S

Ice pitches & Mt Blanc du Tacul.

plain kitten ?/Jul/02 AltLd


1202alarm ?/Mar/02 -
brockers ??/2002 -
with CarlZ
Hidden 12/Sep/01 2nd
liz j ?/Sep/01 2nd
with neil brodie
ian bryant 12/Jun/01 2nd
with walter
prcleary ??/2000 -
stokesrees 06/Feb/99 Lead

falling ice on pitch three broke my nose, messy bleeding, left a lot of gear behind. returned to climb this again

with Gus Melbourne
AB1965 09/Jun/98 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Feb/97 AltLd

First (and only!) winter alpine route. Ignoring the bad forecast we headed up and had the route to ourselves - fantastic! As we later camped below the Cosmiques arete the storm hit and our tents got gradually burried in snow! The epic retreat in zero visability back to the cable car was formative!

with Jon Scorer
Michael ?/Aug/96 -
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
Grezza ?/Apr/96 Lead
with Paul E
stokesrees ??/1996 Solo
Hidden 15/Apr/95 AltLd dnf
Hidden 15/Apr/95 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ?/Apr/95 -
with Paul Tucker
crossleysm 14/Mar/95 AltLd

With Neil

Hidden ??/1995 -
alkira 22/Jun/94 -
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
mark-abz 20/Mar/94 AltLd
with Bill S
alpinist63 ??/1994 -
Hidden ?/Jul/93 AltLd
CMacD ?/Jul/93 -
frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
maximjones ?/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/88 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/85 -
Hidden ?/Feb/83 -
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