Rockfax Description
300m. One of the best routes in the Aiguilles Rouges. A rambling start gives way to a spectacular second half featuring wonderful face climbing. The red tower pitch 5 is particularly great.
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 4c, 4) 6b, 5) 6c, 6) 6c, 7) 6b+, 8) 6c. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent route taking the striking red pillar towards the right hand end of the face. The first part of the route isn't too hard but the upper half is very sustained. Start at the bottom of the short narrow couloir at the right end of the face. Take 17 quickdraws and 2x50 - or better 2x55 or 60. 6c Oblig. (The fifth pitch is more like 52m, so the second has to be ready to start... However there's no problem abseiling with 2x50 as it is more direct than the pitch - tie a knot in the end of the rope, anyway...) Read the notes on the topo regarding the descent carefully. Descent: abseil back down the route - don't miss the off-route abseil station to the left (facing in) of the first belay.
J de Montjoye / H Sharp Aug/2008.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kenny G | 12 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Hanger missing from last bolt of the pillar rouge pitch. Doesn’t feel too bad without it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hanger missing from last bolt of the pillar rouge pitch. Doesn’t feel too bad without it. |
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mic.snow | 25 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: In the Piola topo the route is 300m ED- 6c, with the pitches as: 6a, 6a, 4b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6c. This feels correct. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In the Piola topo the route is 300m ED- 6c, with the pitches as: 6a, 6a, 4b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6c. This feels correct. |
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Grade: ED1 6c+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)