UKC

4m. This problem is in the middle of the bouldering wall and begins under the Sloper Lip Traverse. From a sitting start, begin with your left hand on an undercling in the flake with the right holding a small and sharp two finger gaston crimp, while pressing the right foot into a small pocket low down and the left on the obvious good ledge. Pull on very powerfully and gain the sloper lip then step up with the right foot to help gain height to reach the jugs under the roof. From here, get a high left foot on a small edge and pull in from the jugs to get a right foot on the sloper lip, then gain a crimp with the right hand on the wall above, bring the left foot up onto the lip to then gain another crimp with the left hand. Next, stand up and reach for the diagonal slot aiming for the bottom right of the feature to gain a two finger side-pull, then step across to gain as much height as possible to then reach for a small crimp high up. Once gained, get a high a left foot onto a small but positive edge and pull up to reach the jug underneath the large tree root then flag with right leg and match to finish.

A strenuous start leads to easier but balanced climbing. Quite reach dependent so some may find it harder. The problem is made much easier from a standing start where you can begin with two hands on the sloper lip (6a).

Missing out the hold at the back of the sloping shelf under the roof feels like a "better" problem. 6c SS, 6b standing start from flake undercut. May or may not require a one armed mantle....

Craig MacLeod 22/Apr/2021.

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Voting
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tendency to Crack

Grade: f6B+ ***
(Glen Lednock Boulders)

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