UKC

Rockfax Description
The superb 2.5m roof stack. Sit-start on the back wall using an edge and an undercut. Tricky moves at the first lip lead to slots, then more hard moves around the second lip. The tall can miss the move using the hanging block at the first lip by reaching direct to the slots or the big sloper just beneath - f7A+ for this method. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sit-start means sat on the mat, not crouching.

Ticklists

South West Projects , Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Top 50 , Southern 7B Boulderer , 2022 Goals , Portland Pyramid Builder , The List , ROCKFAX Dorset Bouldering: Top 50 , Portland - The Boulders

Feedback

User Date Notes
harrison 4 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Here's felt like the easiest way for me (172cm) using the hanging block before the slot: https://www.instagram.com/p/CfkSHVBD_Uz/ NB After palming with the left hand I adjust the knee bar to a poor knee scum before reaching for the slot, sick move! Can do this method with/without kneepad at the same difficulty - but a lot less painful to wear one if you're in shorts and want more than a couple of goes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Here's felt like the easiest way for me (172cm) using the hanging block before the slot: https://www.instagram.com/p/CfkSHVBD_Uz/ NB After palming with the left hand I adjust the knee bar to a poor knee scum before reaching for the slot, sick move! Can do this method with/without kneepad at the same difficulty - but a lot less painful to wear one if you're in shorts and want more than a couple of goes.
harrison 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: how long are these people reaching the slot from the undercut!
Show beta
βeta: how long are these people reaching the slot from the undercut!
aclimbingsmith 12 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If you use a knee bar for the second moves its way easier.
Show beta
βeta: If you use a knee bar for the second moves its way easier.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lighthouse Area

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Con with no name.

Grade: f7B ***
(Longstone Ope)

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