Rockfax Description
A sustained route that has a good deal of excellent climbing, although the protection, from numerous ageing pegs, should be treated with caution. Start left of a tree at the base of the wall.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb sloping holds boldly to a vegetated diagonal-break with a peg above it. Move left below the peg, then climb a pocket-line to a thin crack, peg. Move up the crack to an open groove and ascend it boldly to a bolt belay on a slab.
2) 6a, 27m. Follow thin cracks rightwards to a small ledge, from where bold moves access a ledge on the left and a medium size cam placement. Make hard moves to a poor peg and traverse rightwards below it to holds that gain a peg. Continue to another peg, from where hard moves past a further peg end at a blank slab. Move right and climb up to a bolted belay/abseil station. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Further to reports of loose rock and poor pegs, the line received some abseil inspection and tidy-up in summer 2021. P1 – At the end of the traverse, an unnecessary and poor-ish peg has been removed, the remaining one appears very solid (small cam backup and small wire in the vicinity). [P1 belay was upgraded to twin bolts a few years back]. P2 – the peg at the crux (with the tat), described as ‘dangerously poor’ back in 1995 still looks worrying 25 yrs. later (!), although it survived a light hammer check and carried body weight. It is still better not lobbed onto, so the recommended tactic is to make a very hard traverse (tech 6a/b) below it (as in Rockfax desc.), then to climb up (mini-wire backup high right, but hard to place). Above, two suspect flakes have been removed; this changes the post-crux climbing a little, but it is certainly no harder (the ugly rock scars will heal in time…) There is now a high peg to protect the excellent top-out moves.

FA. N.White 11/Jul/1986.

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Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist

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