A very sustained route that has a good deal of excellent climbing, although the protection, from numerous ageing pegs, should be treated with caution. Start left of a tree at the base of the wall.1) 6a, 27m. Climb sloping holds boldly to a vegetated diagonal-break and a peg above it. Move left below the peg, then climb a pocket-line to a thin crack, peg. Move up the crack to an open groove and ascend it boldly to a bolt and peg-belay on a slab.2) 6a, 27m. Follow thin cracks rightwards to a small ledge from where bold moves access a ledge on the left and a medium size cam placement. Make hard moves to a poor peg and traverse rightwards below it to holds that gain a peg. Continue to another peg from where hard moves past a further peg end at a blank slab. Climb a thin flake up on the left to easier ground and a traverse rightwards to a bolted belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb, but which relies heavily on some ageing peg runners and has the odd bit of brittle rock - hence suggested current status 2** (2018 SD guide book).
(if time permits, likely to receive some moderator attention in late 2020 or 2021 to try and revive the 3*** status)
N White 11/Jul/1986.
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