54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained route that has a good deal of excellent climbing, although the protection, from numerous ageing pegs, should be treated with caution. Start left of a tree at the base of the wall.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb sloping holds boldly to a vegetated diagonal-break with a peg above it. Move left below the peg, then climb a pocket-line to a thin crack, peg. Move up the crack to an open groove and ascend it boldly to a bolt belay on a slab.
2) 6a, 27m. Follow thin cracks rightwards to a small ledge, from where bold moves access a ledge on the left and a medium size cam placement. Make hard moves to a poor peg and traverse rightwards below it to holds that gain a peg. Continue to another peg, from where hard moves past a further peg end at a blank slab. Move right and climb up to a bolted belay/abseil station. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Further to reports of loose rock and poor pegs, the line received some abseil inspection and tidy-up in summer 2021. P1 – At the end of the traverse, an unnecessary and poor-ish peg has been removed, the remaining one appears very solid (small cam backup and small wire in the vicinity). [P1 belay was upgraded to twin bolts a few years back]. P2 – the peg at the crux (with the tat), described as ‘dangerously poor’ back in 1995 still looks worrying 25 yrs. later (!), although it survived a light hammer check and carried body weight. It is still better not lobbed onto, so the recommended tactic is to make a very hard traverse (tech 6a/b) below it (as in Rockfax desc.), then to climb up (mini-wire backup high right, but hard to place). Above, two suspect flakes have been removed; this changes the post-crux climbing a little, but it is certainly no harder (the ugly rock scars will heal in time…) There is now a high peg to protect the excellent top-out moves.

FA. N.White 11/Jul/1986.


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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Limestone Cowboys

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Foggintor Quarry)

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