UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning but desperate climb that takes on the most sustained section of the wall. Climb the thin wall to a hard move up and left, and a rest. Very thin moves rightwards, and then up to a thin crack, lead to an easier slab and a lower-off on the right. © Rockfax

FA. N.White 05/Sep/1987.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Devon Sports 7s

Feedback

User Date Notes
i_a_coops 23 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: It's also possible to climb into the upper section of this route from the easier start of Up The Styx Without A Paddle. This is about 7c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's also possible to climb into the upper section of this route from the easier start of Up The Styx Without A Paddle. This is about 7c.
Dale Turrell 25 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The route description mentions a peg at the final thin crack but I couldn't find one. Getting to the higher lower-off seems horribly run out without it (the last bolt is at the end of the thin traverse right at the crux. I would recommend stepping right from the crack to the Mustard Custard lower-off instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route description mentions a peg at the final thin crack but I couldn't find one. Getting to the higher lower-off seems horribly run out without it (the last bolt is at the end of the thin traverse right at the crux. I would recommend stepping right from the crack to the Mustard Custard lower-off instead.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Long Quarry Point

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Edward's Wall

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Potato Head)

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