UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning but desperate climb that follows the most sustained section of the smooth bulging wall. Start at the wall's lowest point.
Climb the thin wall to a hard move up and left, and a rest. Very thin moves rightwards, bolt, and up to a thin crack, peg, lead to an easier slab and the lower-off. Linking the start into the finish of Up the Styx gives a fine 7c pitch. © Rockfax

FA. N.White 05/Sep/1987.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dale Turrell 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: The route description mentions a peg at the final thin crack but I couldn't find one. Getting to the higher lower-off seems horribly run out without it (the last bolt is at the end of the thin traverse right at the crux. I would recommend stepping right from the crack to the Mustard Custard lower-off instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route description mentions a peg at the final thin crack but I couldn't find one. Getting to the higher lower-off seems horribly run out without it (the last bolt is at the end of the thin traverse right at the crux. I would recommend stepping right from the crack to the Mustard Custard lower-off instead.

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mustard Custard

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Long Quarry Point)
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