UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
14m.

Rockfax Description
7a+, S1. Climb Animal Magnetism to its second bolt, then move straight up the overhanging wall. A committing pitch. © Rockfax

FSA. Mike Robertson 1990s.

Ticklists

Dorset DWS progression , South England DWS Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
shane ohly 26 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Just as good as it erstwhile neighbour Animal Magnetism but usually with less chalk on...well worth it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just as good as it erstwhile neighbour Animal Magnetism but usually with less chalk on...well worth it.

Logged Ascents

106 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Surge Control

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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