UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
14m.

Rockfax Description
S1. The ramp is short, intense and brilliant. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Jun/1992.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Hard water , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Dorset weekender , Dorset DWS progression , Portland Trip , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , South England DWS Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
remus 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As below, the 'door handle' thing has been glued back together. Slightly worse than before but at least it's not going to explode anymore.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As below, the 'door handle' thing has been glued back together. Slightly worse than before but at least it's not going to explode anymore.
Pete Scott 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Somebody has added a lot of resin all over the hourglass hold. Its a bit of a mess and makes the hold worse. What happened!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Somebody has added a lot of resin all over the hourglass hold. Its a bit of a mess and makes the hold worse. What happened!?

Logged Ascents

422 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
For Love and Liberty

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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