UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
15m.

Rockfax Description
S1. One of the very best 7cs around. Good moves on large holds leading to a powerful crux at the lip. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 23/Oct/1987.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Hard water , Dorset weekender , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Dorset DWS progression , Portland Trip , Steep UK Sport Routes , Pyramid to 8a+ , South England DWS Dreams

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seriously Slim Fast Motel

Grade: 7c ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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