25m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route direct up the bulging face, starting from the tidal trench. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Long Jul/1998

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland

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UserDateNotes
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: routes hereabouts are best late summer, afternoon/evening after prolonged dry weather, oh low tide helps. Otherwise a cold snap in feb can give good conditions
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: routes hereabouts are best late summer, afternoon/evening after prolonged dry weather, oh low tide helps. Otherwise a cold snap in feb can give good conditions
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tom Corras 25 May Lead RP mega.
with Daina
mega.
with Daina
Aaron.Clifford 4 May Lead RP Finally
Finally
Qisheng Xie 29 Sep, 2018 Lead RP The real project, 4 years of ups and downs, gone in a sunny afternoon.
The real project, 4 years of ups and downs, gone in a sunny afternoon.
Dohnny_Jawes 23 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Dandan 19 May, 2018 Lead RP Had to wait for the sun to dry the route out a bit, undercuts still slimy but good enough to do the job. Fantastic route, so refreshing compared to the usual Portland vertical crimp-fest
Had to wait for the sun to dry the route out a bit, undercuts still slimy but good enough to do the job. Fantastic route, so refreshing compared to the usual Portland vertical crimp-fest
Aaron.Clifford 13 May, 2018 Lead dog In two parts now, came off on the last powerful move on the headwall, straight back on and to the chains, should go next try but it's a faff to get on with the tides! Bottom half felt pretty soggy this time. Might need a few more hot days to burn off the moisture.
In two parts now, came off on the last powerful move on the headwall, straight back on and to the chains, should go next try but it's a faff to get on with the tides! Bottom half felt pretty soggy this time. Might need a few more hot days to burn off the moisture.
Dandan 12 May, 2018 Lead dog Not in condition at all but managed to refine beta significantly, just have to wait for a good day now!
Not in condition at all but managed to refine beta significantly, just have to wait for a good day now!
Dandan 6 May, 2018 Lead dog Excellent climbing, serious power endurance! A bit of finessing some of the crux moves and it should go.
Excellent climbing, serious power endurance! A bit of finessing some of the crux moves and it should go.
JackMac 6 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Slipped off greasy crimps on RP. Should have waited for a day when the tides were best in the afternoon.
with Alice
Slipped off greasy crimps on RP. Should have waited for a day when the tides were best in the afternoon.
with Alice
JackMac 29 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Cool to find a route on Portland where the upper section is noticeably overhanging (i.e. the decent rock). I wouldn't say it was the best route I've tried on Portland though. Felt pretty knackered today - had one RP attempt but fluffed the clip next to the crux pocket. Worth coming back for.
Cool to find a route on Portland where the upper section is noticeably overhanging (i.e. the decent rock). I wouldn't say it was the best route I've tried on Portland though. Felt pretty knackered today - had one RP attempt but fluffed the clip next to the crux pocket. Worth coming back for.
philhaigh 28 May, 2016 2nd dog
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead RP
dan gibson 15 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Adversity tick. A battle for good conditions, tides and fitness! Fantastic route.
with julie carroll
Adversity tick. A battle for good conditions, tides and fitness! Fantastic route.
with julie carroll
duncan 28 Aug, 2014 TR dnf
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
Cailean Harker 9 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Great climbing. Changed my perception of climbing on Portland
with Ben West, brice, Gav Symonds
Great climbing. Changed my perception of climbing on Portland
with Ben West, brice, Gav Symonds
westyb3 9 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Great line, good work longridge.
with Ben Norman, Cailean Harker, Gav Symonds
Great line, good work longridge.
with Ben Norman, Cailean Harker, Gav Symonds
brices 9 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Brilliant pumpy route with a sting in the tail. one to come back for
Brilliant pumpy route with a sting in the tail. one to come back for
jacobjacob 3 Aug, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go, absolutely brilliant route! Really cool and interesting moves. 7c+ in my opinion.
2nd go, absolutely brilliant route! Really cool and interesting moves. 7c+ in my opinion.
jonleighton 12 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
3 Names 12 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Jon Leighton
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 15 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Wonderful. Had so much fun getting the clips in and working the beta. Got to the last hard move on my 3rd go but powered out due to mistakes below. Tried a 4th time but I was too tired. I'll be back!
Wonderful. Had so much fun getting the clips in and working the beta. Got to the last hard move on my 3rd go but powered out due to mistakes below. Tried a 4th time but I was too tired. I'll be back!
quiffhanger 15 Jun, 2014 Lead RP One of my top 2014 experiences so far. 3rd go feeling tired. No expectations but somehow stuck the jug on the lip aided by clip-skipping and desperate slaps. Somehow recovered enough for the final crux. Super memorable!
One of my top 2014 experiences so far. 3rd go feeling tired. No expectations but somehow stuck the jug on the lip aided by clip-skipping and desperate slaps. Somehow recovered enough for the final crux. Super memorable!
david potts 29 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Great route. Must be one of the best on Portland. Really pleased to do this route on an amazing day.
with Nat
Great route. Must be one of the best on Portland. Really pleased to do this route on an amazing day.
with Nat
quiffhanger 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dog V good - worth the chossy start & finish for the great steep section. Didn't feel low in the grade (tho was greasy) - will prob take a couple more goes to get it clean.
V good - worth the chossy start & finish for the great steep section. Didn't feel low in the grade (tho was greasy) - will prob take a couple more goes to get it clean.
La Mont 23 Jul, 2011 Lead RP great route. does not feel as steep as it looks. tricky move on the head wall. 1st r/p
with James Doc
great route. does not feel as steep as it looks. tricky move on the head wall. 1st r/p
with James Doc
w.pettet-smith 8 Aug, 2009 TR dog fun cut loose move. good sequence afterward. will be a major major pump out on the lead. prone to grease. might project it.
with josh
fun cut loose move. good sequence afterward. will be a major major pump out on the lead. prone to grease. might project it.
with josh
bigie bob 6 Jul, 2007 Lead RP
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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set