UKC

Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925) https://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/lundyisland/ . Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted Routes (Year-round Access) 

The Devil’s Slide Area: The Devil’s Slide to The Back of the Slide (pp. 251-257) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Halfway Buttress to The Knight Templar Rocks (pp. 356-359) inclusive 

Restricted Routes (Closed 31 Mar - 14 Aug) 

The South Coast: Damocles Buttress to Kistvaen Buttress (pp. 29-31) inclusive 

The Devil’s Limekiln Area: Hidden Zawn to Leaning Buttress (pp. 33-48) inclusive 

Montagu Steps Area: Weird Wall to Celtic Buttress (pp. 49-60) inclusive 

Pilot’s Quay Area: Atlantic Buttress to Trawlerman’s Buttress (pp. 61-65) inclusive 

Old Light Area: The Old Light Cliff to Two Legged Buttress (pp. 66-88) inclusive 

Alpine Buttress Area: Wolfman Jack Wall to Sunset Promontory (pp. 91-99) inclusive 

Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South to St Patrick’s Buttress (pp. 100-123) inclusive 

The Flying Buttress Area: Battery Cliff to Flying Buttress Main Cliff (pp. 124-138) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Beef Buttress to Dead Cow Point (pp. 142-145) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Earthquake to Needle Rock (pp. 153-158) inclusive

Jenny’s Cove: The Pyramid Cliff (pp. 191-194) inclusive 

Beaufort Buttress Area: Picnic Bay Cliff to Beaufort Buttress (pp. 195-207) inclusive 

Grand Falls Zawn Area: Double Headed Zawn to St Mark’s Stone (pp. 208-227) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Black Bottom Buttress to Ten Foot Zawn (pp. 232-239) inclusive 

The Devil’s Slide Area: St James’s Stone to Starship Zawn (pp. 240-249) & Fluted Face (pp. 259-261) 

Squires View Zawn: Benson’s Buttress to The Fortress (pp. 262-281) inclusive 

Torrey Canyon Bay: St John’s Stone to Torrey Canyon Cliff (pp.282-290) inclusive 

Seal Slab Area: Marisco Walls to Short Story Zawn (pp. 292-308) inclusive 

Arch Zawn Area: Arch Zawn to Long Roost Ridge (pp. 309-323) inclusive 

North Light Area: North West Point to The Constable (pp. 345-353) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Quarries (p. 354) 

Extended Restrictions (Closed 31 Mar - 15 Sep) 

The Flying Buttress Area: Black Jack Zawn to Jemima Buttress (pp. 138-141) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Fighter Buttress to Banana Buttress (pp. 145-151) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Punchbowl Cliffs (pp. 158-161) 

Jenny’s Cove: The Devil’s Tower to Pathfinder Slabs (pp. 162-191) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Big Zawn (p. 230) 

Heron Zawn Area: Heron Zawn to Cormorant Zawn (pp. 328-335) inclusive 

North Light Area: Storm Zawn to The North Light Cliffs (pp. 336-345) inclusive 

The East Coast: Gannet’s Buttress to Gannet’s Rock (pp. 360-362) inclusive

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

A copy of the 2024 restrictions PDF is available for download in the File tab near the bottom of this page.

 

One of Lundy's classic HVSs and a route of great variety. Ascend the cornered ramp on the RHS of the buttress delicately, past a small overlap. Swing R at the main roof to enter the continuation crack, a monster layback flack and a short finishing corner.
The final flake and overhang below have now fallen down. Remaining loose rock has so far prevented an ascent of the new line. Climbed on 14/06/22 - climb as per guidebook description until you reach the scarred & friable rock where the flake presumably used to be. Step out right onto a small ledge (same face as indi 500) and grope around in the green lichen until some layback holds are found. Top out with much care on small holds & plants. I believe the route has probably increased slightly in grade. A hold broke on our ascent & some remain loose. Weight them with care

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

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User Date Notes
joe.91 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top has fallen off you now finish up Indy 500 at E1 5b.
Show beta
βeta: Top has fallen off you now finish up Indy 500 at E1 5b.
Rog Wilko Aug, 1996 Show βeta
βeta: I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.

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Guidebooks for Lundy

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Climbers' Club Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)

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