UKC

One of Lundy's classic HVSs and a route of great variety. Ascend the cornered ramp on the RHS of the buttress delicately, past a small overlap. Swing R at the main roof to enter the continuation crack, a monster layback flack and a short finishing corner.
The final flake and overhang below have now fallen down. Remaining loose rock has so far prevented an ascent of the new line. Climbed on 14/06/22 - climb as per guidebook description until you reach the scarred & friable rock where the flake presumably used to be. Step out right onto a small ledge (same face as indi 500) and grope around in the green lichen until some layback holds are found. Top out with much care on small holds & plants. I believe the route has probably increased slightly in grade. A hold broke on our ascent & some remain loose. Weight them with care

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Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

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User Date Notes
joe.91 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top has fallen off you now finish up Indy 500 at E1 5b.
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βeta: Top has fallen off you now finish up Indy 500 at E1 5b.
Rog Wilko Aug, 1996 Show βeta
βeta: I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.
βeta?
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βeta: I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
American Beauty

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)

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