2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.

FA. R.Hodgkin 1936

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Hidden 17/Sep Lead O/S
SamStro 28/Aug 2nd dog

Beefy - a fantastic jammy squirm.

Oscar Popels 28/Aug Lead O/S

I made an absolute meal of the first pitch. I tried the conventional jamming technique a few times and was having reasonable progress gaining the lip. Then I decided to throw technique out the window and did a horrible layback on shit crimps of the crack and no footholds. Somehow I managed to mantle back into the crack and get gear in. Laybacking felt about 5c. I had a much better time jamming on the top pitch but still found it strenuous. I'd like to go back and climb it properly.

with SamStro, Lydia
badgerjockey 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Felt shit all day so it was a big mistake to choose this as our first climb here and first on granite for ages!! Some pumpy grovelling and bailing resulted in Rich's first HVS lead which was just as well. Excellent move to the first stance then great climbing above capped off by a horrible offwidth which my arms weren't having any of so buggered off left.

with Rich
Anna Maykova 15/Aug AltLd G/U

Did the first pitch. Fell off at the bottom on No 6 cam, got lowered down. Did the pitch clean ground up. Attempted the 2nd pitch, had to admit defeat about 3 meters from the top - ran out of cams by this point and didn't fancy running out the hardest section of the whole route. Wish I could jam!

with Ian
Hidden 06/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul Lead O/S
Strife 14/Jul AltLd O/S

Accidentally deviated from the route at the end and took a very direct finish across a bulge and into a sketchy off-width. Also ran out of gear for the last 10m. Needless to say, it felt harder than HVS

Jimbob64 14/Jul AltLd RP

Lead first pitch.

with Simon
daniel heaton 10/Jul Lead

Really good route had to haul nick up the first 5/10m of the first pitch as he couldn't fist jam

with Nick Goldring
melv 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Fi
Ben Wooler 08/Jul 2nd
spenser 08/Jul Lead O/S

A fine effort for 1936, by heck those boys could jam! Top pitch felt harder than the bottom pitch, absolutely brilliant!

Bettymolly 02/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd dog
derico 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Tommy S
perrys 16/Jun AltLd O/S

Fantastic route with tough jamming at the bottom. I led P1, Hamish led P2

Hidden 16/Jun AltLd
rachelpearce01 15/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun Lead O/S
Sam Mills 14/Jun AltLd O/S
Jack Porteous 14/Jun Lead rpt
R0BJ0N 14/Jun Lead O/S
with Rich Wain-Hobson
Hidden 09/Jun 2nd rpt
Max Harman 04/Jun Lead O/S
BIgYeti86 03/Jun Lead
Noodles30 ?/Jun AltLd
Brian H 28/May AltLd rpt

Led p1.

Ed Hastings 04/May Lead O/S
with James Annear
nvalentine760 03/May Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May 2nd O/S
felixwilkins 29/Apr 2nd
Jack Porteous 29/Apr Lead rpt
ClimbingAlex 28/Apr AltLd dog

Failed again on the first pitch. Can't Jam! 2nd pitch felt easier this time around.

phil456 23/Apr -

Jumar up cleaning Aid gear after David. Hard work

with David C
mick1jones 23/Apr AltLd dnf

Led p2. Wouldn't commit to final moves so escaped up CG p2

Kayan 11/Apr AltLd
poeter210 08/Apr AltLd O/S

Fantastic, about 4 metres of meh climbing on the whole thing

Hidden 08/Apr AltLd O/S
UncleMephisto 18/Feb Lead O/S

Ultra Burly! Sam's suggestion of taped hands was the difference between success and failure. A superb route.

Hidden 18/Feb 2nd
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Wendy Watthews 06/Nov/16 AltLd rpt

Lead p1, reasonably pleased I was able to do the jams with little skin lost.

with JakeB.
Hidden 06/Nov/16 AltLd
keepguessing 05/Nov/16 Lead rpt

Jacob got to learn how to crack climb.

with jacob
nodwas 05/Oct/16 Lead
suds_01 05/Oct/16 AltLd dog
with Stu Bracher , Chris sawdon
nodwas 05/Oct/16 Lead
alice fuller ?/Oct/16 Lead RP

2nd Simon Hall in2012 and took the swing on the first bit, as had know idea how to jam.seconded clean with Kafoozalem in2015 after backing off the lead...got the way you have to lean off the fist jam.Lead 1st pitch today(i love my link cams)2nd pitch lead still needs to be faced up to - i need bigger fists!

with kafoozalem, Simon
mark4344 24/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with cheeky
cheeky 24/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
ClimbingAlex 21/Sep/16 AltLd dog

Great lead from Matt on P1. Had to rest on rope as dark & couldn't see foot holds! Led P2 with headtorch. Definitely felt harder than 4c. Committing, thrutchy moves at the crux before the top.

with Matt
Matt Magecha 21/Sep/16 AltLd

Great climb if not a little painful for a novice jammer! Almost jumped off the belay point as a massive fur ball of a squirrel ran out of the crack at my face as i tried to get gear in place!!

with Alex
TomSW 11/Sep/16 -
Sam O'Rourke 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Cianchi
Ben Cianchi 09/Sep/16 2nd

With Sam

chris j ?/Sep/16 Lead
with Jeremy
James S 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Maybe someone should make the 'Uninspiring names to brilliantly inspiring routes' ticklist......?

with hattie, melty
rholdswo 26/Aug/16 TR O/S

Ropeman solo

AndyMorrall 07/Aug/16 2nd
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Becky E
AMJ098 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead
Hidden 15/May/16 AltLd O/S
Phil79 06/May/16 2nd rpt

2nd pitch. Great jamming, but a sandbag at 4c really

with Steve H
Hidden 01/May/16 Lead O/S
GHawksworth 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
stuartf 20/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Jackislav 14/Feb/16 Lead rpt
nickstephens 14/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

Hot ache-tasting. ..

keepguessing 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty easy, with half decent crack skills and some strong arms you should have no issues.

with sam
afterthesend 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Excellent climb, you just need to jam!

Lumbering Oaf 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S


with Luca
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/15 2nd dog

Found first pitch hard

with Westy
professorcobra 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Sabine Wilkins1 08/Aug/15 TR dog
Andy Moles 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Jon de Leyser
Jon_dL 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Very fun 2nd pitch.

clubmanpete 29/Jul/15 AltLd

Lead middle pitch only this time so my buddy can take the glory brilliant climb. Top out easier once you find the hold on the left out view... sorted!!!

Skinnybloke 28/Jul/15 AltLd

Lead first pitch, pete lead 2nd pitch fruitflancase in the dark.

GethSurf 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Skinnybloke 23/Jul/15 AltLd

Pete lead 1st pitch. I lead 2nd pitch of gidion. Pete lead 3rd pitch fruitflancase. What a night!

clubmanpete 23/Jul/15 AltLd

Finally had the balls to do it .... finger taped round my hands I then had it sussed.... well happy with that... cracker!!!

Rob Moorcroft 21/Jul/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
onlyfoddington 18/Jul/15 AltLd

I lead pitch 1 and after a bit of yo-yoing I established myself in the crack and then painstaking inched along it. An interesting birds nest below the belay.

with Rob K
bigbobbyking 18/Jul/15 AltLd

Dave led the meaty first pitch. The second pitch was harder than expected. Took a slightly less direct line than intended.

with David Brock
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
Tilt 11/Jul/15 2nd
with Marc T, Liam Hockey
Hidden 06/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hinchrn 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Tom
elewis96 ?/Jul/15 2nd
crispycodd 30/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2, Stephen led first pitch of the ordinary to by the tree and then up the direct to the belay.

Lenny 27/Jun/15 AltLd

Good climb.

with James. D
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies 13/Jun/15 AltLd

Much pleasanter wearing the Gloves!

with Dave Nicol
martin one 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
supersouthward 28/May/15 -

So much fun, led the 2nd pitch and the crack is ace, birdies just after the first groove 28/05/15

snook 28/May/15 AltLd rpt

I lead pitch one and Jack did the burly pitch 2. We finally manged to get the complete route done tonight...at last. Had tried on several other occassions but weather, other climbers on the route, etc has foiled are attempts in the past. Managed to get through the first big crack using a combination of fist jams and crimps with a ridiculously high right foot to avoid the polish. The lay back just before the first belay is an absolute pleasure to climb. 2nd pitch just keeps coming at you with a rest bite in the middle. Good effort Jack!

Hidden 20/May/15 2nd
brian watson 15/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/15 -
Jack Porteous 13/May/15 Lead O/S

lead 1st pitch

Tom.Sedgwick 13/May/15 AltLd dnf

Jack Porteous led the first pitch and I attempted the second pitch but couldn't get past the crux. definitely need to try again. Perhaps I need to learn to jam properly.

JulesClimbs 07/May/15 2nd
with Paul
LDJ 04/May/15 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
Hidden 12/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
andycash 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with chris day
Hidden 07/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
petegunn 07/Apr/15 AltLd
with Davina
CrispsSmiths 06/Apr/15 AltLd

Repeated falls on last move -bah !

with Ant Man
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
cornishben 07/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Rich Draisey
samparsons ??/2015 2nd O/S
jamiegee97 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Will Mortimer 05/Nov/14 Lead G/U

A tad moist

s.thursz 05/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

first pitch hard, ended up leading the second pitch of Gideon E1, 5a

pearson9596 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Howell
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Jimbo
Lee_Meaden 26/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
pimpy 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

led both pitches

with Sam
kennythescot 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Stainfield
David Staples 14/Sep/14 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead
John Tanner 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
dbrooks 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch, finished in the moonlight... special! definitely worthy of top 50 status

with John
Andy Clarke 31/Aug/14 AltLd

Thugged up start, after getting it wrong first go. Pulled rope & started again. Not climbing at my most relaxed as kicked gear out of bottom of crack both times! Fortunately had also placed big Friend higher - rather hurriedly. Note to self: must repeat with better gear & style. Led P1.

Hidden 31/Aug/14 AltLd
James_L88 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and last move on P2. Kat led P2.

with Kat Day
humptydumpty 23/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Start is horribly polished, presumably from idiots like me who can't get up. I'll be back...for more polishing.

jon_gill1 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Ross led p1 and i led p2. It was nice to lead this as it was my first ever multi pitch that i climbed with JWB many years previous!

with ross garfoot
Paul423 06/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Seconded pitch 1 and I extracted off route towards central grooves second pitch due to loss of daylight.

Neil D 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Started on CC ordinary, but did top pitch of CC direct by mistake.

Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd β
darcan 31/Jul/14 AltLd
Matt Amos 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really good climbing. I would have said it was a solid 5a throughout. Loved it all/

Matthew Martin Wsm 29/Jul/14 2nd

found it really tough, but loved it, some great moves, tough for hvs i thought!

zcsharp 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Didn't think it was that amazing but the second pitch was very good.

Hidden 27/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
georgeevans88 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Didn't think the first pitch was that great. Caught off guard by the hard bit at the end.

with Jamie
Ewan Russell 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S

As a oner possibly the best HVS pitch I have ever done

with Tom Nichols
solenostomus 01/Jul/14 2nd

Dave lead and managed the first move after a few attempts. Dave finished the 2nd pitch by stepping into Gideon/Fruitflancase and top out using the Central Grove finish. After initially struggling on first move, I managed to follow without falls/rests. Brilliant, atmospheric evening climb.

with Dave H
Danslingsby 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Cheeky first move over the overhang, and very tricky top out =S

with CPL Lewis
joeallen28 25/Jun/14 2nd

Bloody hard moves right at the start, and again at the top of the second pitch. Great HVS, if slightly scary!

dmaldonado 22/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Ed Walker
dmaldonado 22/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Ed Walker
mike hooper 21/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Took the first pitch Big hand jams slipped on polished rock fell on the gear bummer nailed it after

with Joby martin
tobydunford 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
Hidden 13/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
darcan 17/May/14 2nd
with cusco
1poundSOCKS 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Jon led P2. Hard start to P1, hard finish to P2, but sustained interest throughout. Overall a fantastic route.

Didymus 05/May/14 AltLd O/S


Luxulyan 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Richard
darcan 25/Apr/14 Lead
Valentine 24/Apr/14 2nd β
gg4419 24/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Kirill 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fist crunching start, pleasant climbing above.

with Philine Hu?
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
foxjerk 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

finished up gideon upper pitches after belay. airy cracker! polish 'ups' the grade on the start i reckon

with wiwwim
I Jones 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Nuku
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Aug/13 2nd
bryan61 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this one,

with graham
Hidden 02/Aug/13 AltLd
tedj234 14/Jul/13 -
Jackislav 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Sarah Welsh 03/Jul/13 2nd
timreynolds 03/Jul/13 Lead
Tristan Sherlock 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
nickdonohue 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Hector ?
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
RossT 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
nickdonohue 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with Andy Bisson
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/13 Lead

very good, didn't find pitch 1 too bad it was as hard to stop and place enough gear to prevent a ground fall as the actual jamming, but the top out on pitch 2 felt solid (HVS) 5a to me not 4c!

with Rob
EcoClimber 31/May/13 AltLd dog

I struggled on 1st pitch. Nick breezed it. I lead 2nd pitch. Great route, bit polished in lower section.

nickstephens 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
with richard climber
hornbywill 30/May/13 Lead O/S
metal arms 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Dave Rumney 27/May/13 Lead


with Tanya Milner
ellmang 25/May/13 Lead

Delighted to do this one :) - albeit somewhat less than elegant.

Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
pelvoux 25/May/13 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch

with Chris Bull
Ed morris 23/May/13 Lead O/S

both pitches

with Ian
tskelhon ?/May/13 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?/May/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Doug miller 27/Apr/13 Lead
Cheese Monkey 24/Apr/13 Lead RP

Chuffed to finally nail this one. Feels like some sort of perverse milestone. The secret is pulling on the jams the right way, then they're bomber!

with Goss
Sarah Welsh 24/Apr/13 2nd dog

With two good swings and one hefty point of aid!

ewanthomson 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Great fun! 1st real crack climb. Jack led 1st pitch, and I 2nd.

with Jack Keo
Grabtheslab ?/Apr/13 -
willhornby ??/2013 -
nickstephens 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Kemics 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Both pitches. Detoured onto CC ordinary to avoid nesting birds at the very top of first pitch. Proper old skool HVS, top pitch felt every bit as hard/serious as the first. Absolute brutality, painful jams and an awesome route. Was totally unprepared for the sting in the tail, so very close to coming off but managed to yard up on a wet insecure fist jam.

katherinesydney 15/Jul/12 2nd β

wholly absorbing. slightly harrowing. i did a super direct start as i wasn't man enough (and don't have big enough hands) to pull through the roof

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
froglette 01/Jul/12 2nd dog
with John Proudfoot
Hidden 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
gg4419 ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 1

dohart 18/Jun/12 2nd
with stu bradbury
Brian H 17/Jun/12 Lead
with Rik
LeadBalloon 31/May/12 Lead dnf

If at first you don't succeed, keep hammering away at it until your climbing buddies laughter gets too much to bear and then give up. Hardly even started this one, couldn't get over the initial overhang...one for next time once I've mastered the art of hand jamming.

with Kelvin
Mr Tickle 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Led P1 and P2. Glad to see I can still jam, classic SW jamming test piece but the rest in the niche allows a needed break on the first crack. Wasn't expecting the sting in the tail but thats what makes this a classic route.

with Ben R
Lyndsay Superclimber 19/May/12 2nd
with Mark S
mark schramm 19/May/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
JamesBrowning 18/May/12 AltLd dog
with Toby
Joe Richards 16/Apr/12 2nd dnf

First pitch

with DOVEY
DOVEY 16/Apr/12 -

Teaching series

with Joe, Nic
BelayBunney 15/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Tried to lead P1, but fell (4 times!) Switched: Fx lead P1 (clean - well done Fx) and I lead P2.

francois 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch after Chris's 7 or so heroic attempts in front of his female fan club. Chris the swiflty dispatched the second pitch.

with Chris
Hidden 14/Apr/12 2nd
guy757 13/Apr/12 Lead
guy757 13/Apr/12 -
steveprice.exmouth 11/Apr/12 2nd
with Chaman
Chaman 11/Apr/12 Lead

Awesome and strenuous for a non jamming-master! One rest after placing initial gear and one before pull over below midway belay. Top pitch lead clean

Philippa Arding 08/Apr/12 2nd
with helen pitt
Kayan 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 01/Apr/12 2nd dog

Took me a few takes to figure out a way of fighting myself into the initial crack. The top pitch - wow!

with James H
arandall 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 28/Mar/12 2nd
JackHatton 17/Mar/12 AltLd dog
with richy mardell
Hidden 17/Mar/12 AltLd
Motown 17/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead
MBarraclough ??/2012 Lead
PAJames ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 Lead O/S
tim exley 28/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

hard jamming on first pitch

Tom Seccombe 28/Dec/11 AltLd

Led second pitch.

dan ely 08/Nov/11 Lead dnf

only p1 as 2nd could not do

crobinson 07/Nov/11 AltLd

found it tough but enjoyable, start is very polished, keep going and you will get your reward.

with Southern Man
Hidden 07/Nov/11 AltLd
burto 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
Ian Miller 21/Oct/11 AltLd dnf
philhilo 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Thought this was desparate at the grade. Very old style HVS, bloody battle with slippery jams and hideous polish at the bottom. Fantastic top pitch but 5a. If you can't jam don't apply!

with Helen E
i_a_coops 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Rustyjas 20/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Chris Clayton-Jones (CJ)
andrew hammond ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Roy
brynmays 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Davebryant 30/Aug/11 AltLd
El3ctroFuzz 30/Aug/11 AltLd
Elaine Budden 30/Aug/11 AltLd dog

lead 1st pitch clean, did rest on the rope on the 2nd pitch to retrive gear with 2 hands.. but i didnt need to :(

net 29/Aug/11 2nd


with George
GPN 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Hard work in the heat!

with Annette
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic route. I lead the first pitch and Stuart led the second. Once I'd figured out the crux moves at the start, it wasn't too strenuous. Very well protected and 3* quality all the way up. The second pitch has a bit of a sting in the tail, which confirms the impression as a top quality route

Souljah 08/Aug/11 -

Great spot, route was a bit polished at the bottom

with Andi T
andi turner 08/Aug/11 Lead


with Eddie
tatz45 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gowla 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Dovey
Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Desperate first pitch

with Greg
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd dog
Jordon Fleming 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

me 1st pitch and ben 2nd. really enjoyed leading first pitch but was hard on the hands and my left leg which i keeped raming into the crack but an awsome climb and well protected. and second ben took a good 10ft fall at the top, but has is harder than 4c. you MUST be good at hand jams and willing to loose some blood.

Cheese Monkey 21/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Dogged again. 10ft! More like 15ft! First proper lead fall right off the top. Made it afterwards though. Take big gear, you'll need it. I will get this clean one day

Bob M 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Paul pitch 1, me pitch 2. Drew some blood, even from the jamming meister.

Chris Sansum 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Chris P1, Gary P2. Found first pitch tough, partly due to a lack of big gear on my harness! Also blaming it on a dodgy knee. Partner went the wrong way at the top of p2 & traversed off left along a horizontal crack then up an easy slab with a layback/finger crack rather than going up the continuation crack. Was probably the end of the top pitch of something like Central Groove.

with Gary Lewin
Cheese Monkey 04/Jun/11 AltLd dog
with Matt
rustaldo 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

there is no way in hell the second pitch is 4c. it felt harder than the first (5a) which was also no pushover. frantically grovelled and flailed my way up the top crack. awful climbing. absolutely. awful. 3stars.

with Ben
feilx 23/May/11 Solo rpt
Stone Muppet 22/May/11 Lead O/S

P1 only due to nesting birds on P2. Gnarly!

with andy's mate dave
dmaldonado 21/May/11 2nd O/S

2nd pitch

James Mitchelmore 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd O/S
Ben1983 02/May/11 AltLd O/S
david morse 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with tori, todd
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 2nd
crossdressingrodney 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

The only question is which scars will last longer: the mental ones or the ones where my hands used to be?

victim of mathematics 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Lost some blood, but made it!

gcandlin 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

led the first pitch, possibly my favourite route to date.

elbeanio 25/Apr/11 2nd
TerryLines 25/Apr/11 -
jeffb 23/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Calder
Chris Ebbutt 20/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave R.
Hidden 19/Apr/11 AltLd
Frostie 19/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd
nickstephens 12/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Not sure if I missed the nice hold or something as you go over the overhang but I managed to make that seem a lot harder than 5a. Bugged out left at the top due to a serious lack of light and a distinct feeling of Deja vu.

with Marie Racault
Dilwat 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nick, SurferStan
nickdonohue ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Ian Riddell, Chris Stanyon
nickdonohue ?/Apr/11 2nd
with Mike Reading
DOVEY 21/Mar/11 Lead
with Fran Cavanil & Sam Maker
francesanncavanagh 21/Mar/11 2nd

Dovey lead, Sam and I seconded

with Sam Maker, Ian Dovey
Chris Nash ??/2011 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
chappers909 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead rpt
nickdonohue 18/Sep/10 Lead
jcook1980 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Sergi, Dan Walker
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tom.e 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
Rock Lizard ?/Sep/10 2nd
mark schramm 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with tom m
tommoulds 30/Aug/10 2nd β
with Schramm
Bristoldave 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
five 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with AV
Hidden 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
salwilms 10/Jul/10 2nd
WalnutHorse 10/Jul/10 AltLd

Led 1st Pitch

davefount 08/Jul/10 AltLd dog

One fall, seconding the start of the first pitch. Initial crack is despirate, too wide for me to jam my fist. Lead second pitch which is good value for 4c. A proper exercise in offwidths!

with lewis stewert
Homes 29/Jun/10 Lead
with Sam A
andy dunn 28/Jun/10 Lead β
with Tom
Luuuuuke 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Alex H
Dux 21/Jun/10 AltLd dog

seconded first pitch. Required tight rope after fall on initial crack. Lead 2nd pitch but took a 20ft lob at top trying to get established in offwidth crack. Finished up ordinary corner.

with Dawlish
Dawlish 21/Jun/10 AltLd

lead fist pitch - paul lead second

with paul
PaulTanton 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
El3ctroFuzz 05/May/10 Lead rpt

I dont care, i will argue with anyone that this is Hvs 5b+ on the second pitch! It would be E1 if it had less gear. It IS hard!

with Elaine Budden
John Henry Wynn 05/May/10 Lead dnf

bailed out on the final pitch, too much sport climbing pays its tole

with Will Murray
Elaine Budden 05/May/10 2nd dog
Philippa Arding 04/May/10 AltLd
nick arding 04/May/10 AltLd
twright180 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
minexplorer 20/Apr/10 AltLd

2nded 1st pitch.couldnt do the strenuous jamming to get in crack had to traverse in via CCO then backclimb down crack to get gear out.led top pitch.a 21/2 or 3 cam for roof of v groove advisable.did crux at top in dark,glad i brought my headlamp.hats off to james for climbing top pitch by feel as he didnt have one.

with james
smollett ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with rad
uncontrollable 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch and managed the crux after finding a fist jam without too much struggle. Seconding the second pitch with freezing cold hands had me winging for Alan to take the slack out of the system.

with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 13/Feb/10 AltLd dog

Led 2nd pitch. Couldn't get past the overhang at the start of the 1st, but led 2nd clean.

jmhood ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mike.moss ??/2010 Lead dog
Luke d 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 15/Nov/09 2nd O/S
solenostomus 21/Oct/09 AltLd

led the 2nd pitch - AWESOME!

with Shaun
Kyle Rance 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S

I climbed both pitches as second was not comfortable

Ben Watts 11/Oct/09 2nd dog

Kyle lead both pitches - I took so so so so so many attempts at getting past the lower crux!

with Kyle Rance
rob1 28/Sep/09 Lead
with Dave Williams
aged_ape 19/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
with KM
twright180 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
WalnutHorse 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
cat22 17/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead
AnniH 06/Aug/09 2nd
with TonyB
graham knott 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Flippin brilliant climb! Some real jammin action. First time placing gear off a jam.

with kafoozalem
Hidden 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S
rockferret 16/Jun/09 Lead dog

First pitch only (have done the second pitch a few times on CCO). Climbed the bottom cleanly and then unnecessarily dogged the roof below the belay by smearing feet (8-10 foot drop). Got back on and finished sensibly. Very Stupid.

with Pete and Pedro
deklan 31/May/09 AltLd
with dad
El3ctroFuzz 29/May/09 Lead O/S

I mucked up the last hard moves. Made it more than 4c+.. More like 5b!! Supine Position though!

with Ian Luscombe
Lummy41 29/May/09 AltLd
with Tom Bunn
JWB 24/May/09 Lead O/S

1st pitch steady and enjoyable. 2nd pitch hard especially the top crack, only 4c???

Tim W 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Marina Unterfosthuber
Hidden 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Uber Mike
cem 13/Apr/09 AltLd

Led p2

Steerpike 08/Apr/09 AltLd rpt
with Tommo
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
josh william legg ?/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Bob Peters ??/2009 -
Jack_F ??/2009 Lead O/S

A bit funky...one of my first HVS's

with Max hodges
Tez339 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/Aug/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/08 AltLd dog
django 29/Jun/08 2nd dog

Fantastic fun, although a bit tough at the bottom.

AlexD 29/Jun/08 Lead

second pitch only - started on CC ordinary to avoid desperate jamming start!O

Hidden 13/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
pelvoux 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Thinking I was doing a HS, it took quite a while but did it with some hesitation on the route but in one pitch. Beautiful view from the top

with Jon
Shaw Brown 03/May/08 AltLd
with simon blythe
Nobster ?/May/08 2nd
with Sven
Popkids 09/Apr/08 -
with Kafoozalem
Hidden 03/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
tumbling wizard 02/Feb/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Disco ??/2008 2nd O/S
nick99 ??/2008 Lead
with Mike
robbo11 ??/2008 TR
with various
Jon_Warner 17/Nov/07 Lead dog

Spat me off first time

with Tom
Jon_Warner 17/Nov/07 Lead RP

An absolute stunner. Quite hard i thought for 5a but then again i didnt jam.

with Eden
Dhonny_Jaws 15/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
alaan 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Backed off the second as there was a Hornets nest right in the middle - BEWARE!

with Connor
gangreen ?/Jul/07 -
Hidden 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 06/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Fell on last section (wide crack) of 2nd pitch, climbed right onto 'route B' to finish. Maybe next time!! it was fantastic up to there though!!

Mark Kemball 01/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 20/May/07 AltLd
Justin T 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd
Chad123 12/Apr/07 Lead O/S

After getting worked ten years ago, finally cruised up this one actually enjoying the strenuous jamming this time! Last few moves are pretty wild for 4c!! Best done as one long pitch to savour the experience....

with Clare and Sam
Dave Searle 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
David Sherratt ??/2007 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 11/Nov/06 AltLd rpt
with Torran Elson
Hidden 19/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/06 AltLd
adam carless 21/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/06 AltLd
Gareth ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
gjw5670 12/Jun/06 Lead rpt

Wicked experience!

with Robin
Cardi ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Mike D
dan gibson 31/May/06 Lead rpt
with karing
Hidden 30/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with dai
mark4344 08/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with michel schonewille
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 -
Phil79 ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Henry
CraigMac1 ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rory Grout
sebrider ??/2006 Lead
with Roby Rudolf
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd
Dave Pritchard 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with Simon Laker
lost.arrow 01/May/05 -
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead rpt
spence 25/Sep/04 2nd


with Gabie Watson
ChrisBrooke 28/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 18/Jul/04 Lead rpt
crater 09/Jun/04 2nd

pitch 1 only

with sam
jonlord ?/Jun/04 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 19/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Ben
chris sm ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Digger 06/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Sarah Nield
Hidden 03/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 17/Feb/04 AltLd
lost.arrow 17/Oct/03 -
fellgazelle 14/Sep/03 Lead
charlesmfrench 14/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Ian _Haigh
Bob M 02/Sep/03 AltLd

N led first pitch

Norman_P_W 02/Sep/03 AltLd
with Bob M
Hidden ?/Aug/03 -
Hidden 07/Jun/03 Lead
nickdonohue ?/May/03 Lead
goi.ashmore 23/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
StoneT ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Way more than 5a the way I did it. (not jamming)

with Dad
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with Dick Hanson
Frostie ??/2002 Lead
with various
VPJB ??/2002 -
Hidden 01/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
colin milton 20/Sep/00 AltLd

at last must have been my 5th or 6th attempt the same number of years.

with eric milton
Hidden 06/May/00 AltLd
duncan 21/Apr/00 Solo O/S
with Dan Donovan
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
with Joe
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 05/Nov/99 AltLd
with Nic Dill
timreynolds 30/Sep/99 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch - went left at top in complete darkness!

with Dave Cummings
FrankW 14/Aug/99 2nd
with Levi
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1999 -
with Gail Waller
craig h 31/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
andy_pemberton ?/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/95 -
tracyclimber 12/Jul/95 Lead dnf

Failed to lead it.

ellie macpherson ?/Jun/95 AltLd
with Steve Taylor
Hidden 29/Dec/94 Lead dnf
tompercy ?/Nov/94 AltLd
with John S
Hidden ?/May/93 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Sean Summers
Hidden ??/1993 -
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
auld al ?/Apr/91 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
with Norman Wright
kennylind ??/1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1990 -
Derek Ryden ??/1990 Lead O/S

All gear fell out just as I committed to the crack on pitch 1. Made a radical decision that if I got intimidated I would get stuck in the crack, so played it cool and soloed it on smears, staying out of the crack altogether. When I repeated it (in normal fashion) years later, I decided I must have been completely insane!

with Gary Panes
daviesdan ??/1989 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Nick Biven 10/Sep/88 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Nick Staroszczuk
RichardMc 01/May/88 AltLd rpt
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hidden 29/Apr/88 Lead O/S
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 13/Dec/87 Solo rpt
nigehughes ?/Nov/87 Lead
with Keith Hunter
Pete Nugent 25/Sep/86 Lead
Simon cook ??/1986 -
Hammy 11/Feb/85 Lead
with Colin Struthers
Hidden ??/1985 -
Richard Weller 07/Jun/84 AltLd
with Julian Sampson
jcw ??/1983 -
with Mike Harrop
PaulTanton ?/May/82 Lead O/S
with Greg Smith
Andy Fielding ??/1982 Lead
with Mark Williams
babymoac 17/Aug/80 AltLd
with MTW
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
RichardMc 08/Apr/78 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Falko 22/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Mike Milnes
Bolt Phobia 04/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with John Broadwell
RichardMc 03/Aug/69 AltLd
with Ian MacPherson
uphillnow ??/1964 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 92
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 86
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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