UKC

Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted Routes (Year-round Access) 

The Devil’s Slide Area: The Devil’s Slide to The Back of the Slide (pp. 251-257) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Halfway Buttress to The Knight Templar Rocks (pp. 356-359) inclusive 

Restricted Routes (Closed 31 Mar - 14 Aug) 

The South Coast: Damocles Buttress to Kistvaen Buttress (pp. 29-31) inclusive 

The Devil’s Limekiln Area: Hidden Zawn to Leaning Buttress (pp. 33-48) inclusive 

Montagu Steps Area: Weird Wall to Celtic Buttress (pp. 49-60) inclusive 

Pilot’s Quay Area: Atlantic Buttress to Trawlerman’s Buttress (pp. 61-65) inclusive 

Old Light Area: The Old Light Cliff to Two Legged Buttress (pp. 66-88) inclusive 

Alpine Buttress Area: Wolfman Jack Wall to Sunset Promontory (pp. 91-99) inclusive 

Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South to St Patrick’s Buttress (pp. 100-123) inclusive 

The Flying Buttress Area: Battery Cliff to Flying Buttress Main Cliff (pp. 124-138) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Beef Buttress to Dead Cow Point (pp. 142-145) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Earthquake to Needle Rock (pp. 153-158) inclusive

Jenny’s Cove: The Pyramid Cliff (pp. 191-194) inclusive 

Beaufort Buttress Area: Picnic Bay Cliff to Beaufort Buttress (pp. 195-207) inclusive 

Grand Falls Zawn Area: Double Headed Zawn to St Mark’s Stone (pp. 208-227) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Black Bottom Buttress to Ten Foot Zawn (pp. 232-239) inclusive 

The Devil’s Slide Area: St James’s Stone to Starship Zawn (pp. 240-249) & Fluted Face (pp. 259-261) 

Squires View Zawn: Benson’s Buttress to The Fortress (pp. 262-281) inclusive 

Torrey Canyon Bay: St John’s Stone to Torrey Canyon Cliff (pp.282-290) inclusive 

Seal Slab Area: Marisco Walls to Short Story Zawn (pp. 292-308) inclusive 

Arch Zawn Area: Arch Zawn to Long Roost Ridge (pp. 309-323) inclusive 

North Light Area: North West Point to The Constable (pp. 345-353) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Quarries (p. 354) 

Extended Restrictions (Closed 31 Mar - 15 Sep) 

The Flying Buttress Area: Black Jack Zawn to Jemima Buttress (pp. 138-141) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Fighter Buttress to Banana Buttress (pp. 145-151) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Punchbowl Cliffs (pp. 158-161) 

Jenny’s Cove: The Devil’s Tower to Pathfinder Slabs (pp. 162-191) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Big Zawn (p. 230) 

Heron Zawn Area: Heron Zawn to Cormorant Zawn (pp. 328-335) inclusive 

North Light Area: Storm Zawn to The North Light Cliffs (pp. 336-345) inclusive 

The East Coast: Gannet’s Buttress to Gannet’s Rock (pp. 360-362) inclusive

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

 

35m. From part-way up the huge corner, follow the crack line on the left wall all the way to the top, via a well-earned ledge at half height and a steepening finale, breaking left to top out. Pumpy, exhilerating and with loads of gear, a 3 star pitch if ever there was one.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Lundy 2016 , Lundy , High Quality Adventure routes , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Lundy Bird Ban VS-E3 , 33 By 33 , South West in Extremis

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User Date Notes
Dickie91 14 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Current guidebook states 41m length. UKC description is 35m. It is closer to 50m when started from the very bottom.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Current guidebook states 41m length. UKC description is 35m. It is closer to 50m when started from the very bottom.

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Guidebooks for Lundy

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 87
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Power

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)

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