Rockfax Description
A similar but harder version of Pan breaking out right from it. There was originally an independent start but this isn't very good and the rock is not the best. From twin blobs on Pan, move back right to gain a thin crackline and climb this aiming for a peg. Make some hard technical moves to the tat, then exit slightly left to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 03/Sep/1986.
The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Robbie_Phillips | 10 Jul |
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βeta: Knowing where exactly to go is a little tricky as there is supposed to be two E5\'s... I basically followed the obvious holds out right from the blobs up the thin crack to the peg then more or less went directly up. The last thread was clippable from where I reached and that was supposed to be on the other E5... but who cares? It\'s all the same thing I think and if there is a line to the right, it feels little forced maybe, or possibly just needs a bit of local knowledge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Knowing where exactly to go is a little tricky as there is supposed to be two E5's... I basically followed the obvious holds out right from the blobs up the thin crack to the peg then more or less went directly up. The last thread was clippable from where I reached and that was supposed to be on the other E5... but who cares? It's all the same thing I think and if there is a line to the right, it feels little forced maybe, or possibly just needs a bit of local knowledge. |
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Anoetic | 9 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Video of Andy on the route https://youtu.be/mZj-G7bjjfw | ||
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βeta: Video of Andy on the route https://youtu.be/mZj-G7bjjfw |
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Ramon Marin | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Having been down there a few times, I’ll give twopence of knowledge. Basically it is the same route with 3 differerent finishes: left is Pan, direct is 1984 and right is Class of 86. Same hanging belay for all of them. For Pan head for the prominent knob/v-notch at the very top. For Class head to the peg. For 1984 carry on straight. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Having been down there a few times, I’ll give twopence of knowledge. Basically it is the same route with 3 differerent finishes: left is Pan, direct is 1984 and right is Class of 86. Same hanging belay for all of them. For Pan head for the prominent knob/v-notch at the very top. For Class head to the peg. For 1984 carry on straight. |
Topo for No Man's Zawn is inaccurate in Pembroke Rockfax and CC and Wired guidebooks as well.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Skrinkle Haven)