Restricted Access
The crag lies on private land with no public right of access beyond the approach path, which is a public right of way.
Access is permitted only if the following conditions are met - it's is imperative that all climbers using the site adhere to these conditions :-
• Climbers must ask permission to climb, please pop into the farm and ask every time before climbing
• Large groups are not permitted. Park considerately, not blocking gates or access tracks. Keep noise to a minimum, (No music, bluetooth speakers or ghetto blasters!)
- Do not drop litter and please pick up any that you may see there.
• Dogs to be strictly on leads at all times -some groups have turned up with dogs off lead when there are sheep, lambs and cows in the fields.
• Lack of activity during lockdown has led to an increase in vegetation on the crag and top outs. Some of this has been cleared without the landowner's blessing and was cleared during a time when farmers are not allowed to clear vegetation (nesting). Please ask at farmhouse if it ok to clear vegetation.
Rockfax Description
The perfect route for its size with technical and interesting climbing from the moment you leave the ground. Follow the thin crack to good holds and wires beneath the overlap, then make a long move rightwards to reach a flat hold. Pull up and stand on this and then follow the thin crack in the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 11.8.76 11/Aug/1976.
Ticklists
Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes , 2 and 3 star routes in Clwyd
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Fiend | 7 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Excellent route on great rock! Good pro for the bouldery crux with distinctly wild moves - whilst the upper slab has trickier pro and still delightful climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route on great rock! Good pro for the bouldery crux with distinctly wild moves - whilst the upper slab has trickier pro and still delightful climbing. |
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| Sam Ring | 2 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Ace route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ace route! |
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| daveayton | 22 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Superb route - laced with bomber pro (small wires)- maintains interest all the way | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route - laced with bomber pro (small wires)- maintains interest all the way |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Maeshafn
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Sir Cathcart D'Eath
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Monk's Buttress)