Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
An excellent link-up that has lost holds in its upper section and pushed the grade up from 7a. Climb to join Yosemite Wall and pull up through a steep bulge to an easing. Move leftwards across small corners and bulges to a lower-off. A useful variation is to start up Against the Grain and then finish up Yosemite Wall to give Against the Wall, 7a+ - this avoids the often wet start to Yosemite Wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A popular and strenuous route which starts up the old route...
FA. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 24/May/1996.
Ticklists
Very good routes in the UK , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Steve Crowe Routes , Steve & Karin’s New Routes , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible , All the 7as and 7a+ at Malham
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pablo Murcia | 27 May |
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βeta: Undercling flake at last bolt before anchor is slightly wiggly. Doesn't feel like it'll pop yet but use with care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Undercling flake at last bolt before anchor is slightly wiggly. Doesn't feel like it'll pop yet but use with care. |
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| PaddyT | 25 Apr |
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βeta: there’s a house Martin nest just after leaving Yosemite wall. Worth avoiding | βeta? | |
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βeta: there’s a house Martin nest just after leaving Yosemite wall. Worth avoiding |
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| Call ._ d | 28 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: quite confusing where this goes, seems you can join yosemite wall earlier or, just after the permadraw, then again 2 different ways to join yosemite wall here hard left or up 11 clock, confusing line which may explain grade difference opinions | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: quite confusing where this goes, seems you can join yosemite wall earlier or, just after the permadraw, then again 2 different ways to join yosemite wall here hard left or up 11 clock, confusing line which may explain grade difference opinions |
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| Rich Kirby | 18 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Really good 3 star route, bang on at 7a if you look for footholds and get the knee bar. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really good 3 star route, bang on at 7a if you look for footholds and get the knee bar. |
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| richardh | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: It's a long way down if a hold snaps when you're just about eye-level with the belay :) No change in difficulty. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's a long way down if a hold snaps when you're just about eye-level with the belay :) No change in difficulty. |
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| GDes | 8 May, 2005 |
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βeta: solid 7a, very steady until the crux near the end, which is fine once figured out. nowhere near 7b. excellent route | βeta? | |
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βeta: solid 7a, very steady until the crux near the end, which is fine once figured out. nowhere near 7b. excellent route |
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| Tyler | 29 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Third bolt is a real gripper and given that the holds beneath it must always be slimey (they were today and the crag was bone dry) could do with a couple more bolts. A lot of steep climbing for 7a, must be 7a+ | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Third bolt is a real gripper and given that the holds beneath it must always be slimey (they were today and the crag was bone dry) could do with a couple more bolts. A lot of steep climbing for 7a, must be 7a+ |
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| richardh | 2 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: possibly as hard as Appetite, but no harder and nowhere near 7b. Plenty of bolts and plenty clean enough, I think you must have been somewhat off route? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: possibly as hard as Appetite, but no harder and nowhere near 7b. Plenty of bolts and plenty clean enough, I think you must have been somewhat off route? |
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| Daimon - Rockfax | 10 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very Long, very pumpy and harder than Yosemite wall I think. Needs some more bolts placing. Not a very clean route Ie mixed in a bit to much with some other routes. I got lost on it. 7B | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very Long, very pumpy and harder than Yosemite wall I think. Needs some more bolts placing. Not a very clean route Ie mixed in a bit to much with some other routes. I got lost on it. 7B |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Slap Happy
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Loup Scar)