UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

57m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route for the grade taking in some impressive positions. Start up right below a short hanging corner.
1) 5b, 17m. Climb the corner but move left by the tree onto a slab. Move up then drop down leftwards to a ledge.
2) 5b, 20m. Traverse delicately leftwards to the Carnage belay.
3) 5b (6b free), 20m. As for Carnage pitch 2 to the break. Traverse this break leftwards then move up to a corner. Climb up and step left onto the arete above everything. Finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (1pt) 1967. FFA. Unknown.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
James-m-h 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunspot

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Pot Scar)

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