UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Sustained wall climbing just left of the longest of the three grey tufa streaks to a hard move near the top. Only 7c+ if you go left and use holds on Obsession between bolts 4 and 5. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Judson, Dean Eastham, Mark Penny 1992.

Ticklists

Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alessandro78 24 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: ***ROPE WEARING WARNING ⚠️*** Falling repeatedly between bolt 4 and 5 (crux) resulted in massive wear of my rope (see photo). I cut the end and, not having realised the reason, went back to trying and it started wearing again. I checked the quickdraws and they seem fine. I noticed there is a particularly crozzly bit of rock that must act as a cheese grater on the rope when falling from the crux. BE SAFE
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ***ROPE WEARING WARNING ⚠️*** Falling repeatedly between bolt 4 and 5 (crux) resulted in massive wear of my rope (see photo). I cut the end and, not having realised the reason, went back to trying and it started wearing again. I checked the quickdraws and they seem fine. I noticed there is a particularly crozzly bit of rock that must act as a cheese grater on the rope when falling from the crux. BE SAFE
accynez 17 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Now re-equipped with resin bolts
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now re-equipped with resin bolts
Andy Farnell 27 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bizzarely it feels easier than Main Overhang or L'Ob Session when on the blunt end, but is tougher (just) than either on the sharp end. May well be 8a, but very difficult to say for sure.
βeta?
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βeta: Bizzarely it feels easier than Main Overhang or L'Ob Session when on the blunt end, but is tougher (just) than either on the sharp end. May well be 8a, but very difficult to say for sure.
richardh 29 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: on the list for this summer/autumn
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: on the list for this summer/autumn
Andy Farnell 25 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Feels very easy for 8a, hard 7c+? Second bolt still very dodgy and in need of replacement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels very easy for 8a, hard 7c+? Second bolt still very dodgy and in need of replacement.
simonrichardson 20 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt still a bit dodgy, go carefully now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second bolt still a bit dodgy, go carefully now.

Logged Ascents

76 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zoolook

Grade: 8a ***
(Malham Cove)

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